'자전거 /공개'에 해당되는 글 42건</h3>

  1. 2012.12.26 My Cloth selection based on temperature (F)
  2. 2012.12.03 Why do I push more watts while climbing? - http://forum.slowtwitch.com/forum/Slowtwitch_Forums_C1/Triathlon_Forum_F1/Why_do_I_push_more_watts_while_climbing__P3839309-2
  3. 2012.10.27 Power Profile table 1
  4. 2011.02.16 Tour de France Bicycles & Historical Bike Weights - http://felixwong.com/2010/11/tour-de-france-bicycles-historical-bike-weights/
  5. 2011.02.15 자전거 경량화 떡밥 - http://angelhalowiki.com/r1/wiki.php/%EC%9E%90%EC%A0%84%EA%B1%B0%20%EA%B2%BD%EB%9F%89%ED%99%94%20%EB%96%A1%EB%B0%A5
  6. 2011.02.02 Road Groupset Weight Comparison
  7. 2011.01.11 Ride Tips - Passing - http://www.ms150.org/ms150/SafetyZone/etiquette.html#passing
  8. 2010.12.22 Spoke calculator - http://www.sheldonbrown.com/rinard/spocalc.htm
  9. 2010.12.15 Novatec Speedy
  10. 2010.11.22 Basic Winter Bicycling Clothing Temperature Table
  11. 2010.11.20 Fallbrook bicycle ride information - http://home.znet.com/schester/fallbrook/bicycling/road_reviews.html
  12. 2010.08.04 Ten Ways to Not Get Hit - http://bicyclesafe.com/
  13. 2010.08.04 Who's Elitist? - http://www.labreform.org/elitism.htm
  14. 2010.07.31 Forté™ Apollo Wheels
  15. 2010.07.18 Cycling Savvy: "Why are you riding in the middle of the lane?" - http://clipmarks.com/clipmark/0B727D27-CE14-492F-B76D-DE921B5785EF/
  16. 2010.07.15 7 Ways to Be a Jerk on a Bike Tour - http://www.active.com/cycling/Articles/7-Ways-to-Be-a-Cycling-Jerk-on-an-Organized-Tour.htm?cmp=276&memberid=107127128&lyrisid=20820590
  17. 2010.07.13 Alex A-class ALX200 wheelset 1
  18. 2010.07.01 Building Blocks of all Foods (Protein) - http://www.cptips.com/protein.htm
  19. 2010.06.29 San Diego Sunrise & Sunset time
  20. 2010.06.07 Scattante R-650 Full TT set up

My Cloth selection based on temperature (F)

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30-34F : Long Sleeve Jersey, Jacket, Short, Leg warmer, Beanie, Buff, Windstopper glove
35-39F : Long Sleeve Jersey, Jacket, Short, Leg warmer, Beanie, Buff, Windstopper glove
40-44F : Long Sleeve Jersey, Jacket/Vest, Short, Leg warmer, Windstopper glove (or Thin Windstopper glove)
45-49F : Long Sleeve Jersey, Jacket/Vest, Short, Knee warmer, Power stretch glove (or Thin Windstopper glove)
50-54F : Long Sleeve Jersey, Vest, Short, Knee warmer, Power stretch glove (or Thin Windstopper glove)
55-59F : Long Sleeve Jersey, (Vest), Short, (Knee warmer)
60-65F : Short Sleeve Jersey, Short
65-69F : Short Sleeve Jersey, Short
70-   F : Short Sleeve Jersey, Short


winter-clothing-list.pdf


And

Why do I push more watts while climbing? - http://forum.slowtwitch.com/forum/Slowtwitch_Forums_C1/Triathlon_Forum_F1/Why_do_I_push_more_watts_while_climbing__P3839309-2

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Question from non physicist-friend: 
I've noticed that I can produce 350 plus watts for 15 min at 12 mph on a big climb but only 325 on the flats at 25mph for the same time period. What is it that limits my output on the flats? Is it the added work due to wind resistance being cubed? Has me thinking.... 

Physicist/ crazy fast cyclist friend: 


That’s a great question. I don’t think there is a simple mechanical explanation. Here is one possible idea. When I am mostly working against gravity an increase in Watts of 10% (say from 300 to 330) delivers an increase in speed of 10% (12 to 13.2 mph). That is a fairly noticeable change. By contrast, when I am mostly working against air resistance a 10% increase in wattage delivers only a 3.33% increase in speed (25 to 25.8 mph). This is because of the cubed dependence that you mention. 

A related issue is response time. When I make a sudden increase in power the kinetic energy begins to rise at an initial rate equal to the increase in power. The rate of change in speed corresponding to a given rate of change in kinetic energy is inversely proportional to the speed. This means that for the same increase in power the speed begins rising twice as quickly when the speed is half as much. As a percentage of the current speed the rising rate is 4 times as large at half the speed. 

So… when climbing an increase in power results in a change in speed that is both greater (especially as a percentage of current speed) and much quicker. A decrease in power also results in a much more noticeable change in speed. In short, the biofeedback from power to bicycle motion is much tighter at lower speeds. 

And

Power Profile table

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  Allen & Coggan Race Category Table

                                            

Men

 

Women

 

5 s

1 min

5 min

   FT   

 

5 s

1 min5 min

FT

 

24.04

11.50

7.606.40 19.429.296.615.69

 

23.77

11.39

7.506.31 19.209.206.525.61

 

23.50

11.277.396.22 18.999.116.425.53

 World Class

23.22

11.167.296.13 18.779.026.335.44

 (e.g., international pro)

22.95

11.047.196.04 18.568.936.245.36

 

22.68

10.937.085.96 18.348.846.155.28

 

22.41

10.816.985.87 18.138.756.055.20

 

22.14

10.706.885.78 17.918.665.965.12

 

21.86

10.586.775.69 17.708.565.875.03

Exceptional

21.59

10.476.675.60 17.488.475.784.95

 (e.g., domestic pro)

21.32

10.356.575.51 17.268.385.684.87

 

21.05

10.246.465.42 17.058.295.594.79

 

20.78

10.126.365.33 16.838.205.504.70

 

20.51

10.016.265.24 16.628.115.414.62

 

20.23

9.896.155.15 16.408.025.314.54

 Excellent

19.96

9.786.055.07 16.197.935.224.46

 (e.g., Cat. 1)

19.69

9.665.954.98 15.977.845.134.38

 

19.42

9.555.844.89 15.767.755.044.29

 

19.15

9.435.744.80 15.547.664.944.21

 

18.87

9.325.644.71 15.327.574.854.13

 

18.60

9.205.534.62 15.117.484.764.05

Very Good

18.33

9.095.434.53 14.897.394.673.97

 (e.g., Cat. 2)

18.06

8.975.334.44 14.687.304.573.88

 

17.79

8.865.224.35 14.467.214.483.80

 

17.51

8.745.124.27 14.257.114.393.72

 

17.24

8.635.014.18 14.037.024.303.64

 

16.97

8.514.914.09 13.826.934.203.55

 Good

16.70

8.404.814.00 13.606.844.113.47

(e.g., Cat. 3)

16.43

8.284.703.91 13.396.754.023.39

 

16.15

8.174.603.82 13.176.663.933.31

 

15.88

8.054.503.73 12.956.573.833.23

 

15.61

7.94

4.393.64 12.746.483.743.14

 

15.34

7.82

4.293.55 12.526.393.653.06

 

15.07

7.71

4.193.47 12.316.303.562.98

 Moderate

14.79

7.59

4.083.38 12.096.213.462.90

 (e.g., Cat. 4)

14.52

7.48

3.983.29 11.886.123.372.82

 

14.25

7.36

3.883.20 11.666.033.282.73

 

13.98

7.25

3.773.11 11.455.943.192.65

 

13.71

7.13

3.673.02 11.235.853.092.57

 

13.44

7.02

3.572.93 11.015.763.002.49

Fair 

13.16

6.90

3.462.84 10.805.662.912.40

(e.g., Cat. 5) 

12.89

6.79

3.362.75 10.585.572.822.32

 

12.62

6.67

3.262.66 10.375.482.722.24

 

12.35

6.56

3.152.58 10.155.392.632.16

 

12.08

6.44

3.052.49 9.945.302.542.08

 

11.80

6.33

2.952.40 9.725.212.451.99

 Untrained

11.53

6.21

2.842.31 9.515.122.351.91

(e.g., non-racer)

11.26

6.10

2.742.22 9.295.032.261.83

 

10.99

5.99

2.642.13 9.074.942.171.75

 

10.72

5.87

2.532.04 8.864.852.071.67

 

10.44

5.76

2.431.95 8.644.761.981.58

 

10.17

5.64

2.331.86 8.434.671.891.50


Note: Values are displayed in watts/kg. The weight should be the weight of the body only. Bicycle, kit, water bottles, etc... are all excluded. Gray areas can be ascribed to either the category above or below depending on how positively or negatively you wish to view your performance.


Source page 64 of:

"Training and Racing with a Power Meter",
by Hunter Allen and Andrew Coggan ISBN: 978-1-931382-79-3.
 
 

And

Tour de France Bicycles & Historical Bike Weights - http://felixwong.com/2010/11/tour-de-france-bicycles-historical-bike-weights/

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Tour de France Bicycles & Historical Bike Weights

Nov 24th, 2010 (Wed)
Photo
The bike LeMond rode to victory in the 1983 World Championships. His teammate Bernard Hinault won the Tour on a somewhat similar Gitane the year before. (Photo: User airmailv2 on flickr.com)


After swapping my Cannondale’s hodgepodge of Campagnolo components for Shimano Dura-Ace 7700s, Canny weighs in at 19.0 pounds. In this day and age of ultra-light (and über-expensive) bicicletas bedecked with enough carbon fiber to embarrass a B2 Stealth Bomber, this seems a bit portly and admittedly, she could easily lose another 1.5 lbs. if I cared to spend a few hundred dollars for a lighter wheelset, saddle and handlebar.

But can you believe that Canny actually weighs less than the bicycles that Miguel Indurain, Jan Ullrich and Bjarne Riis rode to Tour de France victory in the mid- to late 90s? And every winning Tour bike before that!

Below are some of the bikes ridden to glory in the modern Tour de France era. Bike weights hovered between 18 and 22 pounds from 1968 to 1998, after which they plummeted especially with Lance Armstrong demanding every technological advantage. In 2004, Union Cycliste Internationale (UCI) imposed a minimum weight requirement of 15.0 pounds (6.8 kilograms) for bicycles raced in international events under their jurisdiction — including the Tour de France — so the lightest bike ever ridden to overall Tour victory was Armstrong’s Trek 5900 SL, weighing 14.5 pounds in 2003.

Some other observations:

  • In the last 40 years, three bicycle manufacturers have dominated the race for the yellow jersey: Gitane (with 11 victories), Trek (9), and Pinarello (at least 8). The last decade has been largely Trek, but Specialized took the top two podium steps in 2010.
  • Ever since Lance Armstrong won the Tour on a stock Trek OCLV in 1999, every winning bike has been made out of carbon fiber.
  • Shimano also finally had a win in the Tour starting in 1999.
  • For the climbing stages in all seven of Lance Armstrong’s TdF victories, he used a downtube front shift lever to save weight (about 2-3 ounces). Nowadays, combination brake/shift levers (such as SRAM Red) are just as light as a separate downtube and brake lever — and bicycle manufacturers don’t even put braze-ons for downtube levers on their frames anymore — so 2005 will likely go down in history as the last year that downtube levers were used by a Tour de France winner.
  • Alberto Contador’s Trek Madone 5.2 in 2007 was the first Tour-winning bike with a mountain bike-like sloping top tube. Now almost all modern race bikes have “compact” frames, with the main holdouts being Cannondale and Pinarello.

With the UCI limit of 6.8 kilos being so easy to achieve nowadays for sponsor-backed professionals, what will be the latest innovations we will see in the next decade of Tour de Frances? More widespread adoption of electronic shifting and aerodynamic tubing are a near certainty. Eventually, Shimano and SRAM will come out with 11-speed shifting to catch up with Campagnolo.

I’ll go ahead and predict that by 2020 some sort of disc brake system for road bikes will be introduced and that electronic equipment (e.g., sensors, meters and communication devices) will be more integrated into the frames. Any one else want to go out on a limb?

Year Winning Racer Bicycle Manufacturer Weight, lbs. (kg) Notes
1962 Jacques Anquetil Helyett 22.4 (10.2) (1)
1965 Felice Gimondi Magni 24.2 (11) (1)
1967 Roger Pingeon Peugeot 22.9 (10.4) (1)
1968 Jan Janssen Lejeune 19.1 (8.7) (1)
1972 Eddy Merckx Eddy Merckx (Colnago) 21.1 (9.6) (1)
1973 Luis Ocaña Motobecane 18.7 (8.5) (1)
1976 Lucien Van Impe Gitane 18.3 (8.3) (1)
1977 Bernard Thévenet Peugeot 22.0 (10.0) (1)
1980 Joop Zoetemelk Raleigh 22.4 (10.2) (1)
1985 Bernard Hinault Hinault 21.1 (9.6) (1); TT bike?
1987 Stephen Roche Battaglin 21.1 (9.6) (1)
1988 Pedro Delgado Pinarello 21.6 (9.8) (1)
1990 Greg LeMond LeMond 20.0 (9.1) (1); TT bike
1993 Miguel Indurain Pinarello 22.7 (10.3) (1)
1995 Miguel Indurain Pinarello Espada 17.8 (8.1) (1); TT bike
1996 Bjarne Riis Pinarello 19.8 (9.0) (1)
1997 Jan Ullrich Pinarello 19.8 (9.0) (1)
1998 Marco Pantani Bianchi 17.8 (8.1) (1)
1999 Lance Armstrong Trek 5500 ? (2); Frameset: 3.9 lbs. (1.75 kg). 1″ head tube, threaded chromoly steerer, 9-speed Dura-Ace
2000 Lance Armstrong Trek 5900 ? (2); frameset: 2.8+.9=3.7 lbs. (1.25+.42=1.67 kg), 1-1/8″ head tube, threadless aluminum steerer, 9-speed Dura-Ace
2000 Lance Armstrong Trek 5900 SL <15.0 (<6.8) (2),(5),(6); Frame: 2.2 lbs. (1.0 kg), for mountain stages
2001 Lance Armstrong Trek 5900 ? (2) frameset: 2.5+.9=3.5 lbs. (1.15+.42=1.57 kg), 9-speed Dura-Ace, still used downtube front shifter for mountains
2002 Lance Armstrong Trek 5900 18.0 (8.2) (1)
2003 Lance Armstrong Trek Madone 5.9 15.8 (7.2) (1),(14); road stages
2003 Lance Armstrong Trek 5900 SL 14.5 (6.6) (2),(14); frame: 2.2 lbs. (.98 kg), mountain stages
2004 Lance Armstrong Trek Madone SL 15.0 (6.8) (2),(3),(4),(13),(14); frameset: 2.4+.7=3.2 lbs. (1.10+.34=1.44 kg)
2005 Lance Armstrong Trek Madone SSLx 15.0 (6.8) (3)
2006 Oscar Pereiro Pinarello Dogma-FPX 15.0 (6.8) (3),(8); Magnesium AK61 Superlight
2007 Alberto Contador Trek Madone 5.2 15.0 (6.8) (3),(10),(12)
2008 Carlos Sastre Cervélo R3-SL 15.0 (6.8) (3),(9); Rotor Q-Ring elliptical chainrings mounted on FSA crankarms
2009 Alberto Contador Trek Madone 6-Series 15.0 (6.8) (3),(11)
2010 Alberto Contador Specialized Tarmac SL3 15.0 (6.8) (3),(7)

TT bike = time-trial bike
(1) Les Velos Mythiques Vainquers du Tour de France by Yves Blanc and Bruno Bade, as described in the Starbike Weight Weenies Forum.
(2) Lance Armstrong’s Tour de France-winning machines, James Huang, CyclingNews.com, July 2007.
(3) UCI weight limit of 15 lbs. (6.8 kg) in effect
(4) Other components Armstrong used are described in Wired Magazine, July 2004.
(5) Trek Press Release, July 2000.
(6) Lance Armstrong’s Tour de France Bikes, Chain Reaction Bicycles, 2001.
(7) Alberto Contador’s Astana Specialized S-Works Tarmac SL3, CyclingNews.com, July 2010.
(8) Oscar Pereiro – Dogma-FPX Bike on display, YouTube user Taurus0423, November 2006.
(9) Cervélo launch Carlos Sastre R3-SL and S3 limited edition frames, BikeRadar.com, June 2009.
(10) Alberto Contador’s Astana Trek Madone 5.2, CyclingNews.com, May 2008.
(11) Alberto Contador’s Astana Trek Series 6 Madone, CyclingNews.com, July 2009.
(12) Trek Madone: The Bike That Owned the Tour de France, Gizmodo.com, July 2007.
(13) Trek Madone 5.9 Project One, CyclingNews.com, November 2004.
(14) Trek’s 2005 Carbon Fiber Lineup, Chain Reaction Bicycles, November 2005.


And

자전거 경량화 떡밥 - http://angelhalowiki.com/r1/wiki.php/%EC%9E%90%EC%A0%84%EA%B1%B0%20%EA%B2%BD%EB%9F%89%ED%99%94%20%EB%96%A1%EB%B0%A5

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E D R S P I H C RSS

Contents

[-]
1 개 요
2 가벼운 자전거는 성능이 우수한가?
3 가벼운 자전거가 불리할 수 있는 이유
4 가벼운 자전거는 돈지랄이다?
5 고급 자전거 돈값을 하나?
6 고급 자전거에 대한 변명
7 결론
8 관련항목


1 개 요

자전거의 무게와 성능간의 관계에 대한 논란으로, 다른 성능 떡밥과 더불어 많은 논란이 있는 주제 중 하나다. 보통 고급자전거일수록 가볍기 때문에 가벼운 자전거=고성능 자전거라고 생각하기 쉽고, 현실적으로도 그러한 경향이 있는 것은 사실이지만 실제로 자전거의 엔진은 인간이기 때문에 별 의미는 없다. 차라리 성능면에선 라이더의 체중을 감량하는게 훨씬 유리하다. 애초에 이런 논란이 있는 이유는 자전거의 엔진은 인간이기 때문으로, 타 이동기관의 경우 너무 명확하기 때문에 이런 논란이 생길 여지가 없다.


2 가벼운 자전거는 성능이 우수한가?

정답은 다른 조건이 동일하다면 그렇다 이다. 업힐에는 가벼운 자전거가 유리하고 평지 지속주행에는 무거운 자전거가 유리하다고 흔히들 잘못 생각하는데, 자전거가 가벼울 경우 무조건 유리하다. 자전거가 가벼울수록 가속이 쉽고 업힐이 쉬워지기 때문이다. 무거운 자전거가 속도유지가 잘 되고 내리막에서 더 유리하다고 오해하기 쉬운데, 가속이 어렵고 오르막에서 힘들기 때문에 종합적으로 보면 더 불리하다. 평지만 라이딩하는 것과 오르막 올라갔다 내려오는 것과 비교해보면 쉽게 알 수 있다.

트랙자전거나 TT자전거의 경우 일반적인 로드자전거에 비해 상당히 무거운데, 이건 무거운 자전거가 유리하기 때문이 아니라 공기저항과 강성을 확보하려다 보니 무거워진 거다. 또한 경륜에서는 선수들간 장비 평준화가 우선이기 때문에 최신기술을 도입하지 않는다. 이는 최신기술이 모두 들어가는 올림픽 트랙경기 자전거와 비교해 보면 확연하다.

3 가벼운 자전거가 불리할 수 있는 이유

타 조건이 동일한 경우 가벼운 자전거가 무조건 유리하지만 실제로는 그렇지 않다. 가벼운 프레임이나 휠셋은 강성이 약해 스프린트시 휘청거릴 수 있고, 림 높이가 낮은 경량휠셋은 공기저항이 더 크다.[1] 실제로 공기저항은 자전거 무게보다 훨씬 큰 변수로 작용하는데, 웬만한 오르막의 경우 가벼운 자전거보다 공기저항 적은 자전거가 유리하다고 하고, 이는 속도가 빨라질수록 커진다. TT자전거가 무거운 이유도 이 때문이다.

4 가벼운 자전거는 돈지랄이다?

평균적[2]자전거의 경우 1kg 감량하는 데 보통 백만원 정도가 든다. 자전거의 무게가 가벼워질수록 이 액수는 기하급수적으로 증가해서 나중에는 10g 줄이려고 수십만원을 써야 하는 경지까지 오기도 한다. 농담삼아 1그램 줄이는데 만원씩이라고 표현.[3] (그런데 경량덕후들은 지 몸무게 줄이는데는 관심이 없다.)[4]

5 고급 자전거 돈값을 하나?

제대로 피팅된 입문급 이상의 자전거라면 자전거가 좋다고 기록이 좋아지는건 아니다라고 할 수 있다. 자전거 무게 영향에서 가장 중요한 건 휠셋인데, TDF등을 보면 고가의 카본휠 뿐 아니라 무겁고 공기저항 큰 [5] 샤말이나 펄크럼 레이싱 제로 등의 휠셋들도 버젓이 쓰이는 걸 볼 수 있다. 또한 공기저항의 70%이상은 라이더에게서 나오는데 비싼 에어로 프레임보다 핸들바 5mm 낮추는게 나을 수도 있다.

결국 엔진은 인간 이라는 걸 잊어서는 안 된다.

6 고급 자전거에 대한 변명

실제 기록 차이는 미미하다고 해도 좋은 자전거를 타면 플라시보 효과와 신차효과, 그리고 실제 미묘한 성능차이 (공기저항이 적은 저속에서는 휠셋 차이를 느끼기 쉽다)등의 조합으로 상당한 만족감을 느끼게 되고, 업글시에는 잘 모르지만 다운그레이드하면 차이를 뼈저리게 느끼게 된다고도 한다.

또 어차피 취미생활이니 본인 만족감이 제일 중요하고, 엔진이 중요하다지만 일반인이 아무리 열심히 타봐야 어차피 1등 못한다. 그러니 일찍 포기하고 자전거나 업글하자(...) 라는 현실적인 이유도 있다.

7 결론

동호인 수준에서의 경량화는 분명 경량화 그 자체를 즐기는데에 의미가 있을 것이다. 실제 동호인 경기에서 조금 더 우수한 성적을 거두고자 한다면 잔차 경량화에 힘쓰기 보다는 체계적인 훈련으로 엔진을 업글하는 쪽이 훨씬 빠르고 도움되는 일이기 때문이다. 그리고 경량화를 한다면 자신의 몸부터 경량화를 시작하자. 철저하게 자기관리를 하는 프로선수들의 경우야 몸에서 뺄 부분이 더이상 없기 때문에 그렇다 쳐도 니 뱃살은 좀 줄이고 난 다음 잔차무게를 줄여야 옆에서 지켜보는 자덕들에게 뭔가 의미를 전해줄 수 있지 않겠는가?

체중을 차지하는 것이 근육이라는 가정 하에서 감량은 파워감소를 말하는 것이기 때문에 크게 바람직한 것은 아니다.[6] 경량화로 이득을 볼 수 있는 것은 산악구간의 업힐러의 경우에만 해당된다. 이마저도 안전규정인 6.8kg에 걸려 실제 레이싱에는 경량화가 전혀 도움이 안되니 안습(...)[7]

참고로, 그랜드투어 팀 리더들은 스프린터 위주로 구성하고 삭소뱅크(Saxo Bank)의 [http]파비앙 칸차렐라(Fabian Cancellara)(http://www.riis-cycling.com/person_profiles.asp?p_id=102)의 경우 186cm의 키에 체중은 무려 80kg이다.(키를 생각해 보면 결코 체중이 많이 나가는 편은 아니다) 반면 업힐러(이긴 하지만 멀티다)인 [http]엔디 쉘릭(Andy Schleck)(http://www.riis-cycling.com/person_profiles.asp?p_id=70)의 경우 키가 칸차렐라와 같음에도 불구하고 체중이 무려 67kg(...)165cm인 나보다 가볍다. 칸차렐라에 비교하면 그 차이는 무려 13kg이며, 잔차 2대무게 차이다.

----
[1] [http]MAD FIBER(http://www.madfiber.com/) 라는 요상한 휠셋이 나오는 바람에 이젠 이런말도 조금 하기 힘들어진다. 진정 기술의 발전의 한계는 어디까지일까?
[2] 여기서 평균적이라 함은 프로선수들의 자전거인 최고 클래스급 부품을 사용한 자전거이다. 어?
[3] 이건 농담이 아닌것이 프레임의 경우 100g가벼운 경량 커스텀 모델이 100만원 비싼 경우도 흔하다. 1g도 안하는 카본 볼트의 경우 개당 만원이 넘는다! 참고로, 물한모금 덜 마시면 무려 50g 가까이 경량화된다.
[4] 몸무게는 파워와 직결되는 문제이기 때문. 무게가 무거우면 가속 시 시간이 더 걸리기도 하지만, 공기저항에 의한 감속에도 시간이 걸리기 때문에 등속운동시에는 가벼운것 보다 유리하다.그렇지만 아랫배에 붙어있는 그것은 근육이 아닐텐데?
[5] 당연히 라잇웨잇 등의 초고가 휠셋과 비교해서 그렇다는 이야기다.
[6] 그렇다고 프로선수들 체지방이 매우 낮은 편은 아니다. 특히 그랜드 투어를 하는 선수들은 경기 초반에는 재법 토실토실하기까지 하다.

And

Road Groupset Weight Comparison

|

Groups Road

SRAM made claims to have produced the first sub 2kg groupset in their 2008 Red offering. However anyone who had taken the time to add up the component weights would have found that Campagnolo Record 10sp was under 2kg in 2007.

In 2011 SRAM Red still have the lightest group available (by 26g) with their BB30 crank option, however the BB30 cranks are not compatible with many bikes as yet. The Campagnolo Super Record group at 1875g is the lightest group that can be fitted to any standard bike.

2011

Campagnolo
Super Record

Campagnolo
Record

Campagnolo
Chorus

Crankset
585a
627
667
644b
BB Cups
45
46
46
72
Shift Lever
330
337
337
360
Rear Derailleur
155
172
186
209
Front Derailleur
72
74
76
92
Chain
239
239
255
255
Cassette
177
201
230
230
Brake Calipers
272
278
299
306
Group Weight in g
1875
1974
2096
2168
Group Weight in lb
4.13
4.35
4.62
4.78

aThe Super Record group was weighed with the titanium crankset option.

bThe Athena group was weighed with the carbon crankset and shift levers.

2011

Shimano
Dura Ace Di2

Shimano
105 5700
Crankset
636
636
737
834
BB Cups
89
89
102
102
Shift Lever
459
448
490
492
Rear Derailleur
225
166
209
232
Front Derailleur
124
67
89
112
Chain
249
249
280
291
Cassette
163
163
204
205
Brake Calipers
293
293
330
356
Battery + Loom
137c
n/a
n/a
n/a
Group Weight in g
2375
2111
2441
2624
Group Weight in lb
5.23
4.65
5.38
5.78

cThe Di2 system requires a battery and electrical cables which cannot be cut shorter. Together the battery and cables weigh 217g for 'medium' length. Typically the weight of standard shift cables would be 80g so we have added 137g to the weight of the Di2 group to take into account this difference.

2011
SRAM Red BB30 / GXP
SRAM Force BB30 / GXP
Crankset GXP
655
676
739
890
GXP BB Cups
105
115
115
inc above
Crankset BB30
630
645
n/a
n/a
BB30 Bearings
51
52
n/a
n/a
Shift Lever
280
303
340
344
Rear Derailleur
153
178
188
190
Front Derailleur
58
88
88
89
Chain
257
257
277
277
Cassette
155
210
210
210
Brake Calipers
265
280
287
308
BB30 Group in g
1849
2013
2244
2308
BB30 Group in lb
4.07
4.43
4.94
5.08
GXP Group in g
1928
2107
n/a
n/a
GXP Group in lb
4.25
4.64
n/a
n/a

And

Ride Tips - Passing - http://www.ms150.org/ms150/SafetyZone/etiquette.html#passing

|

Ride Tips - Passing

Passing on a bicycle is a two-way process. As a general rule, the passer has primary responsibility for a safe pass; however, both the passer and "passee" have a few simple responsibilities to make a pass safe and friendly.

The passee(s) should:

  • Be aware of approaching riders (look behind and listen! NO headphones); consolidate to single file to allow a safe pass;
  • Acknowledge calls to pass; saying "Thank You" is a GREAT way to do this!
  • Maintain a steady speed and hold a consistent line-don't suddenly slow down or speed up as you are being passed, and don't swerve.

The passer(s) should:

  • Call "Approaching rider" as you get close;
  • Slow a bit to allow buffer space; communicate "Rider up, slowing" to your group; groups must only pass as a single line;
  • Check the road behind to ensure no approaching vehicles, making sure there is enough room for everyone to safely pass;
  • Call "Passing on you left" after the other rider has acknowledged your presence, indicating number of riders in line if passing as a group;
  • Move left to allow adequate space as you come around as you smoothly accelerate to your previous speed to make the pass;
  • Allow plenty of room before pulling back in to the right so as to not cut off the passees;
  • If in a line, the last rider should indicate "Last rider."

And

Spoke calculator - http://www.sheldonbrown.com/rinard/spocalc.htm

|

Spocalc
Damon Rinard's free
spoke length calculator


Disclaimer: Harris Cyclery assumes no responsibility for
the accuracy of results derived from this or any other spoke length calculator!

What is Spocalc? | Screen Shots | How to Measure Hubs and Rims | Troubleshooting | Related Sites | Other Calculators

Spocalc (full strength version)


Spocalc
(174KB)
To download, click and hold, select "Save this link as..."; Select "Source" from the Format menu.

(Windowns users, right click the link and choose "Save Target As...",)

Spocalc is the full strength version and includes hub and rim databases. I am constantly adding new rims and hubs, so download a fresh copy frequently.

Version Française:
DESCRIPTION

spocalc-fr.xls
(272KO)
Pour telecharger, cliquez et tenez, selectionnez <<Save this link as...>>; Selectionnez <<Source>> du menu <<Format.>>

(Utiliseurs de Windows, cliquez avec le touiche a droite et choisez <<Save Target As...>>)

Merci a Vincent Vallet pour la traduction.

spoke

SpocalcExpress


SpocalcExpress
(16KB)
To download, click and hold, select "Save this link as..."; Select "Source" from the Format menu.

(Windows users, right click the link and choose "Save Target As...",)

SpocalcExpress has no hub database, no rim database, no instructions, no macros -- just the calculations that operate on the numbers you enter.

Thank Mark Schlueter for this great idea. SpocalcExpress is just like the full version of Spocalc, but less.
Enter one set of hub and rim dimensions and SpocalcExpress gives you the spoke length for radial, 1, 2, 3, 4, and any other cross of your choice. Great for Quicksheet on your Palm.

Version Française:
DESCRIPTION

SpocalcExpress-fr
(24KO)
Pour telecharger, cliquez et tenez, selectionnez <<Save this link as...>>; Selectionnez <<Source>> du menu <<Format.>>

(Utiliseurs de Windows, cliquez avec le touiche a droite et choisez <<Save Target As...>>)

Merci a Vincent Vallet pour la traduction.

 

What is Spocalc?

Spocalc is a free Excel spreadsheet I made that calculates spoke lengths for wire spoked wheels. There are lots of other spoke calculators on the web (see the list I've assembled). Some require you to measure your own rim and hub, but Spocalc includes a database of over 350 hubs and 500 rims. The Spocalc database is also user-modifiable and -expandable so you can add more rims and hubs.

Some other spoke calculators require you to re-enter the rim and hub dimensions again and again to get different lengths for different numbers of crosses, but Spocalc automatically gives you spoke lengths for 0, 1, 2, 3, 4 and one other cross of your choosing (even a decimal number! Why would you want to do that?). Having several lengths can come in handy. Print out Spocalc's calculator sheet and take it with you when you buy spokes. If they don't have the right length for, say, three cross, you can take a glance at the sheet and decide if you could use four cross instead.

I wrote this spreadsheet using Microsoft Excel 5.0. To use it, you must have an application that can read an Excel 5.0 spreadsheet, such as Microsoft Excel 5.0 or higher, or Gnumeric (http://www.gnumeric.org).

Spocalc has a few macros to help speed data entry. When opening Spocalc, you must choose "Enable" if you wish to use these macros. If your virus checker disables them you can still use Spocalc without the macros - you just have to type in the numbers by hand.

 


 

Screen Shots

1. Main calculator sheet

 

As you can see, by entering the hub and rim dimensions once, you get spoke lengths for all crosses automatically.

Although front wheels are usually symmetrical, which would make the "Left Front" and "Right Front" tables redundant, I've provided seperate left and right tables in case you are using a disc brake hub or other dished front hub.

At the bottom you can see the tabs used to view the instructions and the hub and rim database sheets.

2. Hub database sheet

While you may certainly type in the numbers by hand, here you can see how to use the macros to enter all the hub data for you.

Important macro tip: you must first select a cell in the "Select a Hub" column before using the macro to enter the data.

3. Rim database sheet

 

The rims sheet works just like the hubs sheet: select the cell containing the rim you are using, then click on the appropriate Macro (from the Tools menu) to enter the Effective Rim Diameter (ERD) on the calculator page, or type the ERD number into the calculator page by hand.

 


 

How to Measure Hub and Rim Dimensions

There are five hub dimensions: dL, dR, S, WL, WR

d, flange diameter is measured between centers of opposite holes in the hub flange. It is usually between 38 and 67 millimeters. Note that it is NOT the outside diameter of the hub's flange. Left and right flange diameters are often, but not always, the same.

S, spoke hole diameter, is the through diameter of any spoke hole. It is usually 2.6 mm.


W, width from center to flange may differ between left and right sides of the hub. In this illustration, WL and WR are the dimensions you enter into the spreadsheet for the left and right sides of the hub, respectively. You can use a hub listed in Spocalc's database, or measure your own hub by following these steps:
  1. Measure OLD (Over Locknut Distance).
  2. Measure Dimension A.
  3. Measure Dimension B.
  4. WL = (OLD/2) - A.
  5. WR = (OLD/2) - B.

Not a lot of precision is needed in the width dimensions. A few millimeters error in width will only lead to a fraction of a millimeter error in spoke length.

I usually measure A and B dimensions by holding the hub lock nut against a flat surface (like the edge of my work bench), then measuring from there back to the hub flange with a ruler or caliper.

Note that you must hold the lock nut (not the axle end) against the edge.

Of course, I use two hands for better accuracy. In this photo one hand is working the camera!

There is one rim dimension: ERD

Effective Rim Diameter (ERD) is the diameter on which you want the ends of the spokes to lie. Most people prefer it near the end of the spoke nipple. If you want to measure your own rim (recommended, just to be sure), then follow these instructions:
  1. Insert two old spokes into holes exactly opposite each other on the rim. Count holes to be sure.
  2. Screw some nipples onto the spokes.
  3. Pull them tight and measure dimension A in the figure (the diameter to the edge of the nipples, where the spokes dissapears into them). Do this at several spots around the rim and average the measurements.
  4. Measure the length of a nipple (dimension B in the figure) and add it twice (once for each nipple). The result is Effective Rim Diameter (ERD). Thus,

ERD = A + 2B.

Effective Rim Diameter (ERD) is the dimension you type into the spreadsheet for "ERD, effective rim diameter". Of all the dimensions you actually might measure, ERD is the most critical dimension affecting spoke length, so it makes sense to measure it a few times at different places around the rim. Always count to make sure you use spoke holes that are actually opposite each other!

 

Off Center or Asymmetric rims require a slight adjustment for spoke lengths. I don't know enough about Excel to make Spocalc smart enough to compensate for rim offset, but I have two work-arounds: the easy way and the exact way.

The Easy Way: Calculate spoke length as if the rim were symmetrical. Then add 1mm to the right side and subtract 1mm from the left side on rear wheels, or add 1mm to the disc side and subtract 1mm from the non-disc side of front wheels.

The Exact Way: The idea is to adjust the hub widths to mimic the rim offset. (The change in spoke length is the same whether the rim moves relative to the hub, or the hub moves relative to the rim.) To do this, just change the left and right flange offsets by the rim offset. Here's how to do it step by step:

After entering your hub data into Spocalc,

1. Calculate your rim's spoke hole lateral offset:
- Measure the rim width (W) and divide by two. This is the rim half-width.
- Measure the distance from the near sidewall to the center of the average spoke hole (L).
- Subtract this number from the rim half-width.

The result is the rim's spoke hole lateral offset (or just rim offset), i.e. the amount by which the rim reduces your wheel's dish. It is usually a couple of millimeters. Thus,

rim offset = (W/2) - L.

2. Type over the "W, width from center to flange" hub dimensions in Spocalc:
- Add the rim offset to the right flange width, and
- Subtract rim offset from the left flange width.

Spocalc automatically displays the new spoke lengths.

 


 

Troubleshooting Spocalc

The spoke lengths calculated in Spocalc are based on pure 3D trigonometry: they are exact. So unless I've made a mistake in the formulas, any error must lie in the hub or rim measurements.

1. Check and double check "ERD, effective rim diameter". Errors in ERD have a direct effect on spoke length. ERD is also the easiest to get wrong, since rims are rarely round when not built into wheels, and you may measure at a large or small diameter. It is definately worth measuring ERD at several locations around the rim and averaging. The idea is to reduce the effect of any single measurement falling at a high or low spot.

2. Hub dimensions are less critical: errors here have less effect on spoke length than errors in ERD. With tangential lacing (several crosses, like three or four), flange diameter (d) is less critical than flange width (W). With radial lacing (not advisable with hub brakes or rear wheels) flange diameter becomes relatively more important.

3. Spoke hole diameter (S) is pretty inconsequential. Errors in spoke hole diameter contribute directly to errors in spoke length, but since the errors are usually so small (much less than 1 mm) they rarely make a significant difference in spoke length. Many formulas ignore spoke hole diameter entirely.

4. Also, it may seem obvious, but check to be sure you entered the correct number of spokes (N), and that you read the spoke length from the cell corresponding to the correct number of crosses. I've made both those mistakes before!

5. You can always download a current copy of Spocalc or SpocalcExpress from this page. This will fix problems like accidentally typing over hub or rim dimensions on the database sheets, or typing over formulas on the calculator sheet.

"Hey Damon, I got the macros working. In the Excel [2000] program. Go under Tools, Macros, then Security. Three option are there. I set mine on medium security. Just thought I'd let you know in case others have the same problem. Thanks for the help and the great spoke calculator." -Bob

 


 

Related Sites

Here are a few other pages on Damon Rinard's Bicycle Tech Site you might be interested in:
Hub weights
Rim weights
Spoke weights
Wheel stiffness
24 spokes in 36 hole hubs

Here are a few pages on other sites you might be interested in:
Check spoke tension by ear, by John Allen.
Robert Torre's trig derivation of the spoke length formula.
Sheldon Brown's excellent Wheelbuilding page.
Tom Ace's beautiful "3 leading, 3 trailing" pattern.
Finite-Element-Analysis of Radially Laced Bicycle Wheels.
Hed Wheels. Complete aerodynamic drag numbers tabulated.
Humphries aero wheel summary more aero drag numbers.
Rowland Cook's unusual lacing patterns.

Here are manufacturer's sites you might be interested in:
American Classic - site map.
DT Swiss Bicycle Technology Menu
Mavic rims and components
Sun Rims
Tune hubs
Sapim spokes

 


 

Other Spoke Length Calculators on the Web

(These links were good when the page was put up, but unfortunately some of these webmasters have broken the links for one reason or another.)

Calculator Free? Allow Decimal Cross? Downloadable? User-updatable Hub and Rim Database? Lengths for many cross patterns with one data set entry?
Damon Rinard's Spocalc yes yes yes yes yes
Seattle University Cycling Club's yes yes yes    
Benjamin J. Manthey yes yes      
John Buchanan's yes yes      
DT Swiss Spokes>calc2 yes     yes  
Pete Gray's Spokulator yes        
Dan Halem's yes     via e-mail  
In German: http://www.tempo-sport.ch/ click on werkstatt, then Speichenl�ngen yes        

And

Novatec Speedy

|
Explosion
Explosion
Explosion
 
Road Hi-End Alloy Clincher Wheels

1.Alloy clincher wheels are extra stiff for sprinting and all-around racing
2.Equipped with light & strong Sapim Laser stainless double butted straight pull spokes 20 front 24 rear 2 cross lacing for stiffness
3.Sapim nipples with POLYAX / S.I.L.S. (Sapim Inside Lock System) prevent tension loss and spoke bending at nipple
4.Alloy hubs with Japanese sealed bearings and rear hub with oversize axle for light weight

 
 
SPEEDY
 

ETRTO 622-14

Weight

Spokes

Rim

Joint

Hub

Axle

Front

663g

10 x 291mm

Alloy

Sleeve

XA891SB

2SB

Alloy
9x100x108mm

Rear

824g

L: 12 x 287mm
R: 12 x 285mm

Alloy

Sleeve

XF892SB

4SB

Alloy
10x130x140mm

Video Instruction

Youtube.com

DESCRIPTION

 SPEEDY v1 - rear

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=whtopmkYOBg

 Replace bearings & cassette body
 SPEEDY v1 - rear

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HygXpI7Cig0

 Campy to Shim10
 SPEEDY v1 - rear

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wclr88prp5Q

 Shim9 to Campy
 SPEEDY v1 v2 compare

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_8yw3xm92gA

 Compare Ver.1 & Ver.2
 SPEEDY v2 - rear

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7jz4X-Fkd1c

 Shim9 to Campy
 

And

Basic Winter Bicycling Clothing Temperature Table

|
And

Fallbrook bicycle ride information - http://home.znet.com/schester/fallbrook/bicycling/road_reviews.html

|

Bicycle Rides Near Fallbrook, CA: General Road Recommendations

Fallbrook is a great place to ride a bicycle on the road. I have immensely enjoyed riding my bicycle in the Fallbrook area, which offers beautiful scenery, great roads to ride on, low vehicle traffic on many roads, and relatively few impediments to riding like the inconsiderate motorists found in some areas.

Good Bicycling Roads

Any of the following roads are a pleasure to ride upon. They are ranked in rough order of altitude gain on the road, from the most level to the most hilly. The six major hills in Fallbrook are explicitly given in The Fallbrook, CA Guacamole Grande.

Road Description
Camino Del Rey, Bonsall. The longest flattest road in the area. Five miles of beautiful scenery through Bonsall paralleling Moosa Creek. Speed limit is 50 mph, but traffic is light and there are only a few spots in the road with inadequate shoulder.
Live Oak Road. Fairly flat, shaded along much of the way by "Ancient Oak Trees". Not much shoulder, but the light traffic and 25 mph speed limit make this a safe road to travel.
Rainbow Valley, Old Highway 395 loop, Rainbow. Fairly flat, beautiful trip through some of the many nurseries in Rainbow. Speed limit 55 mph, but there's an official wide bicycle lane on 395 and Rainbow Valley Road is lightly travelled.
Old River Road, Bonsall. Dead flat, nice trip along south side of the San Luis Rey River. Speed limit is 55 mph, but there is little traffic.
North River Road, Bonsall. Pretty flat, continues along the San Luis Rey River on the north side.
Olive Hill Road. A little hill at each end at Mission, but otherwise fairly gentle slope through pretty country and some nice homes. Speed limit 55 mph, but shoulder is adequate for the light traffic on the road. Avoid near 5 pm "rush hour", when the number of cars increases, lessening the pleasure of the road.
Gopher Canyon Road, Bonsall. Speed limit is 55 mph, and the amount of traffic is fairly high at times due to people from Vista connecting with I-15. When the traffic is not too high, this is a great road with the peak elevation just west of I-15, a steep climb from I-15 but a longer, gentler climb from the west.
Lilac Road, Bonsall. Lightly traveled road, significant climb from west end to junction at Highway 395. The road continues along the famous bridge over I-15 at the entrance to the Fallbrook area, and is generally level until the intersection with Circle R.
Circle R Road, Bonsall. Lightly traveled road, climbs steadily from Highway 395 to its intersection with Lilac Road.
Sleeping Indian. Lightly traveled road, with big hill going north from North River Road, and smaller hill descending along Burma at its northern end. Great views west into Camp Pendleton and the Naval Weapons Station, including ocean views.
De Luz Road. A "Cruise through De Luz" is a delightful trip through quite rural country. There are significant hills along the way, but the road is very lightly traveled.
Sandia Creek Drive. Again, a delightful trip through quite rural country, with significant hills along the way. The road is very lightly traveled, and the views of the Santa Rosa Plateau are stunning.
Rice Canyon Road. A delightful trip through the Rainbow backcountry, consisting of a fun quick descent from Rainbow to SR76, or a tough slow climb toward Rainbow from SR76. Beautiful scenery.
Old highway 395 from Temecula to Escondido. A bicycle lane starts at the San Diego County Line, and continues into Escondido. There are a number of hills along the way. 395 is best used to connect some of the prettier roads that intersect it. The climb to the crest at Lilac Road is the second-toughest climb in Fallbrook.
Couser Canyon Road. The toughest climb in the Fallbrook area from SR76 to the top, then a great descent to Lilac Road. Beautiful countryside all along the way.

Roads To Avoid

The following roads are not recommended for bicycle travel, except when necessary to connect more delightful roads.

Road Description
SR76. Easily the winner of the Most Awful Road To Ride On award from every standpoint. SR76 is narrow in most places with extremely inadequate shoulders. It has the most traffic of any road in the area, including a number of heavy trucks. Although the absolute level of traffic declines east of I-15, it is more than compensated for by the large number of double gravel trucks travelling to and from the several quarries along SR76.

I recommend traveling on only two sections of SR76. First, the ~200' that connects Rice Canyon Road with Couser Canyon Road. Second, the half mile that connects South Mission Road with Olive Hill Road. To connect with North River Road, I prefer to climb the hill using Via Puerta Del Sol (which includes about a mile of good dirt road).

East and South Mission Roads near downtown Fallbrook. Heavy traffic makes these roads unpleasant to travel on, and one can avoid them for the most part in this area. Take Alvarado and Stagecoach in and out of town.
Reche Road Narrow or non-existent shoulders, including at least one hazard of a big ditch right next to the road, combined with 45 mph heavy traffic. The ~400' between Green Canyon and Live Oak Park Rd. is needed to connect those two good roads.
East Mission Although East Mission has a nice wide bicycle lane, the constant heavy traffic at 45 mph makes it an unpleasant trip. However, I do recommend using East Mission to connect Old Highway 395 to Live Oak Road.
South Mission Along much of its length, South Mission effectively has a bicycle lane due to its wide shoulder, even though formally there is no bicycle lane. However, the heavy traffic at 55 mph makes me always breathe a sigh of relief when I finish using it. I do recommend using it to connect Via Monserate to Olive Hill, and Olive Hill to Winterhaven Road, as a necessity to make loop trips.



Bicycle Rides Near Fallbrook, CA: Local Rides

These rides are ordered by increasing total elapsed time from beginning to end, which is also roughly in order of toughness. All the bike rides start at my house, 1802 Acacia Lane, 1 minute from the Alta Vista Drive intersection. Hence all descriptions start with going "North" or "South" on Alta Vista Dr.

You of course can start the loop at any point. If you are fanatical about following the explicit directions given, you are welcome to park anyplace on Acacia Lane.

All of the loop trips are equally enjoyable to do in the opposite direction, although the hills may make the ride quite different.

The six major hills in Fallbrook are explicitly given in The Fallbrook, CA Guacamole Grande.

Total Elapsed Time
(HH:MM)
Total Miles Name Description
1:06 12.6 Olive Hill Loop N on Alta Vista, E on Winterwarm, W on Winterhaven, N on S. Mission, S on Olive Hill, E on SR76, N on S. Mission, E on Via Monserate, N on Palomar, N on Alta Vista.
1:18 11.7 Live Oak Park Rd. N on Alta Vista, E on Winterwarm, W on Winterhaven, N on Green Canyon, E. on Reche, N on Live Oak Park, return same way.
1:18 13.1 Live Oak Park Rd., Hamilton Loop N on Alta Vista, E on Winterwarm, W on Winterhaven, N on Green Canyon, E. on Reche, N. on Live Oak Park, W on E. Mission, S on Hamilton, E on Gum Tree, S on Live Oak Park, W on Reche, S on Green Canyon, W on Winterhaven, N on Alta Vista.
1:43 16.2 Sleeping Indian, Morro Hills N on Alta Vista, E on Winterwarm, W on Winterhaven, N on S. Mission, S on Olive Hill, E on Burma, S on Sleeping Indian, E on Morro Hills, S on Olive Hill, E on SR76, N on S. Mission, E on Via Monserate, N on Palomar, N on Alta Vista.
1:46 16.1 Live Oak Rd., Yucca, Ranger Road N on Alta Vista, E on Winterwarm, W on Winterhaven, N on Green Canyon, E. on Reche, N. on Live Oak Park, E on E. Mission, S on Yucca, Return to Mission, E on E. Mission, S on Ranger Rd., W on Reche, S on Green Canyon, W. on Winterhaven, S on Alta Vista.
1:49 19.4 North River Road, Sleeping Indian N on Alta Vista, E on Winterwarm, W on Winterhaven, N on S. Mission, S on Olive Hill, E on Burma, S on Sleeping Indian, E on North River Road, E on SR76, N on Mission, E on Via Monserate, N on Palomar, N on Alta Vista.
1:56 22.1 Little Gopher, Gopher, 395, Camino Del Rey S on Alta Vista, S on Palomar, W on Via Monserate, S on S. Mission, W on SR76, E on Camino Del Rey, S on Old River Road, E on Little Gopher Canyon, E on Gopher, N on 395, W on Camino Del Rey, E on SR76, N on S. Mission, E on Via Monserate, N on Palomar, N on Alta Vista.
1:56 21.8 Camino Del Rey, 395, Lilac S on Alta Vista, S on Palomar, W on Via Monserate, S on S. Mission, W on SR76, E on Camino Del Rey, N on 395, W on Lilac, W on Camino Del Rey, E on SR76, N on S. Mission, E on Via Monserate, N on Palomar, N on Alta Vista.
2:04 22.1 Little Gopher, Gopher, 395, Lilac S on Alta Vista, S on Palomar, W on Via Monserate, S on S. Mission, W on SR76, E on Camino Del Rey, S on Old River Road, E on Little Gopher Canyon, E on Gopher, N on 395, W on Lilac, W on Camino Del Rey, E on SR76, N on S. Mission, E on Via Monserate, N on Palomar, N on Alta Vista.
2:12 20.4 Live Oak Rd., 395, Rainbow Valley Loop N on Alta Vista, E on Winterwarm, W on Winterhaven, N on Green Canyon, E. on Reche, N. on Live Oak Park, E on E. Mission, N on 395, E on Rainbow Valley, S on 395, W on E. Mission, S on Live Oak Rd., W on Reche, S on Green Canyon, W. on Winterhaven, S on Alta Vista.
2:28 25.5 Temecula City Limits N on Alta Vista, E on Winterwarm, W on Winterhaven, N on Green Canyon, E. on Reche, N. on Live Oak Park, E on E. Mission, N on 395, E on Rainbow Valley, N on 395 to Temecula City Limits sign, return S on 395, W on E. Mission, S on Live Oak Rd., W on Reche, S on Green Canyon, W. on Winterhaven, S on Alta Vista.
2:53 30.5 Mid-Oceanside Tour S on Alta Vista, S on Palomar, W on Via Monserate, S on S. Mission, W on SR76, W on N. River Road, S on Douglas, E on Camino Real turns into Rancho Del Oro, E on Mesa, S on Santa Fe, E on Osborne, N on Vista Way, E on Old River Road, W on Camino Del Rey, E on SR76, N on S. Mission, E on Via Monserate, N on Palomar, N on Alta Vista.
3:04 30.0 Lilac, Circle R, Gopher S on Alta Vista, S on Palomar, W on Via Monserate, S on S. Mission, W on SR76, E on Camino Del Rey, E on Lilac turns into Circle R, S on 395, W on Gopher, N on Vista Way, E on Old River Road, W on Camino Del Rey, E on SR76, N on S. Mission, E on Via Monserate, N on Palomar, N on Alta Vista.
3:13 26 Rainbow, Rice Canyon, Wilt N on Alta Vista, E on Winterwarm, W on Winterhaven, N on Green Canyon, E. on Reche, N. on Live Oak Park, E on E. Mission, N on 395, E on Rainbow Valley, E on 8th St., S on Rice Canyon, W on SR76, N on 395, W on Pala Mesa Dr., N on Wilt, W on Reche, S on Green Canyon, W. on Winterhaven, S on Alta Vista.
3:37 36.4 Dairy Queen in Temecula N on Alta Vista, E on Winterwarm, W on Winterhaven, N on Green Canyon, E. on Reche, N. on Live Oak Park, E on E. Mission, N on 395, E on Rainbow Valley, N on 395, W on Pala Rd., W on SR79, N on Front St., N on Jefferson to Dairy Queen just past Winchester. Return same way.
9:19 (includes
pizza and cokes
recovery time after
main Guacamole Grande!)
62.1 Guacamole Grande route from my house Ride totals 100 km nearly exactly, and has 5000' elevation gain and loss (as in 1 mile of elevation gain!).

N on Alta Vista, E on Winterwarm, W on Winterhaven, go thru Fallbrook High School to Stagecoach (official Guacamole Grande start).

E on Stagecoach, E on Reche, N on 395, E on Rainbow Valley, E on 8th St., S on Rice Canyon, E on SR76, S on Couser Canyon, S on Lilac, W on W. Lilac, E on Circle R, S on 395, W on Gopher, W on Little Gopher, E on Old River Road, E on Camino Del Rey, N on 395, W on Lilac, W on Camino Del Rey which turns into Olive Hill, N on S. Mission after traversing Olive Hill, end Guacamole Grande at Alvarado St.

S on S. Mission, E. on Winterhaven, stay E. on Winterhaven as Brooke curves away from it, S on Alta Vista. See elevation profile of main Guacamole Grande road, not including the portion to and from my house.

Watch out for the 2 miles of construction on S. Mission between Olive Hill and Peppertree. In fact, I'd recommend skipping that part until the construction is finished.




The Fallbrook, CA Guacamole Grande

I have derived the altitude information for the 1996 Guacamole Grande 50 mile bicycle ride by painstakingly reading it off the topo maps and reconstructing where the actual roads are now, as opposed to where they were when the topo maps were made. Changes were due to the construction of I-15.

It was clear that this information is badly needed by the people who ride the Guacamole Grande, since at the rest stops the entire discussion centered on the climbs and speculation as to what climbs might be ahead! The following plots refer to the "official" starting and ending points for the 1996 Guacamole Grande. (The official start was at Fallbrook Union High School. The ride officially ended at the Avocado Festival at Main and Alvarado.)

Graph of: Elevation (in feet) versus mileage of the 1996 Guacamole Grande.
(Click on graph for bigger image.)
Graph of Elevation vs. Distance

Graph of: Cumulative percentage for both uphill and downhill parts of the 1996 Guacamole Grande, versus mileage
(Click on graph for bigger image.)

To clarify what this plot shows, consider the points plotted for mile 30. At that point, you have done about 56% of the total miles. (Note that the total mileage is slightly over 50 miles.) You are in much better shape for altitude gain: you have done ~72% of the total gain already, so you only have 1/4 of the total gain to go. Also, you have done ~64% of the total descent at that point.

The total gain and loss for the 1996 Guacamole Grande is 4712 feet altitude gain, with a loss of 4537 feet of altitude, implying of course that you end up at a higher altitude that you started, which is possible since the finish point does not equal the starting point.

The major climbs are given in the following table, where they are ranked by my judgement of their difficulty, based on total elevation gain for the largest two hills, and then on slope for the rest, all of which have roughly the same total elevation gain.

Major Climbs of the 1996 Guacamole Grande

Hill Name Miles Altitude gain (') Slope ('/mile)
Couser Canyon 3.4 875 257
395 2.1 600 286
Gopher 0.6 265 442
Rainbow 1.1 310 282
Lilac Road 2.0 320 160
Olive Hill 2.4 340 142

And

Ten Ways to Not Get Hit - http://bicyclesafe.com/

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Ten Ways to Not Get Hit

Collision Type #1:

The Right Cross

This is the most common ways to get hit (or almost get hit).(source) A car is pulling out of a side street, parking lot, or driveway on the right. Notice that there are actually two possible kinds of collisions here: Either you're in front of the car and the car hits you, or the car pulls out in front of you and you slam into it.

How to avoid this collision:

1. Get a headlight. If you're riding at night, you should absolutely use a front headlight. It's required by law, anyway. Even for daytime riding, a bright white light that has a flashing mode can make you more visible to motorists who might otherwise Right Cross you. Look for the new LED headlights which last ten times as long on a set of batteries as old-style lights. And helmet- or head-mounted lights are the best, because then you can look directly at the driver to make sure they see your light.

2. Honk. Get a loud horn and use it whenever you see a car approaching (or waiting) ahead of you and to the right. If you don't have a horn, then yell "Hey!" You may feel awkward honking or yelling, but it's better to be embarrassed than to get hit. Incidentally, many countries require bells on bicycles, but the U.S. doesn't.

3. Slow down. If you can't make eye contact with the driver (especially at night), slow down so much that you're able to completely stop if you have to. Sure, it's inconvenient, but it beats getting hit. Doing this has saved my life on too many occasions to count.

4. Ride further left. You're probably used to riding in the "A" line in the picture, very close to the curb, because you're worried about being hit from behind. But take a look at the car. When that driver is looking down the road for traffic, he's not looking in the bike lane or the area closest to the curb; he's looking in the middle of the lane, for other cars. The farther left you are (such as in "B"), the more likely the driver will see you. There's an added bonus here: if the motorist doesn't see you and starts pulling out, you may be able to go even farther left, or may be able to speed up and get out of the way before impact, or easily roll onto their hood as they slam on their brakes. In short, it gives you some options. Because if you stay all the way to the right and they pull out, your only "option" may be to run right into the driver's side door. Using this method has saved me on three occasions in which a motorist ran into me slowly as they hit their brakes and I wasn't hurt, and in which I definitely would have slammed into the driver's side door had I not moved left.

Of course, there's a tradeoff. Riding to the far right makes you invisible to the motorists ahead of you at intersections, but riding to the left makes you more vulnerable to the cars behind you. Your actual lane position may vary depending on how wide the street is, how many cars there are, how fast and how close they pass you, and how far you are from the next intersection. On fast roadways with few cross streets, you'll ride farther to the right, and on slow roads with many cross streets, you'll ride farther left.  See lane position for more about this.

Collision Type #2:

The Door Prize

A driver opens his door right in front of you. You run right into it if you can't stop in time. If you're lucky, the motorist will exit the car before you hit the door, so you'll at least have the pleasure of smashing them too when you crash, and their soft flesh will cushion your impact. This kind of crash is more common than you might think, and in fact cyclists crashing into parked cars is the #1 kind of car-bike collision in Santa Barbara. (source)We've compiled a list of cyclists killed by running into open car doors.

How to avoid this collision:

Ride to the left. Ride far enough to the left that you won't run into any door that's opened unexpectedly. You may be wary about riding so far into the lane that cars can't pass you easily, but you're more likely to get doored by a parked car if you ride too close to it than you are to get hit from behind by a car which can clearly see you.

Collision Type #3:

The Crosswalk Slam

You're riding on the sidewalk and cross the street at a crosswalk, and a car makes a right turn, right into you. Drivers aren't expecting bikes in the crosswalk, and it's hard for them to see you because of the nature of turning from one street to another, so it's very easy for you to get hit this way.  In fact, this collision is so common we've lost track of the number of people who've told us they were hit this way, such as Ray John RayOne study showed that sidewalk-riding was twice as dangerous as road riding, and another study said it's even more dangerous than that.

How to avoid this collision:

1. Get a headlight. If you're riding at night, you should absolutely use a front headlight. It's required by law, anyway.

2. Slow down. Slow down enough that you're able to completely stop if necessary.

3. Don't ride on the sidewalk in the first place. Crossing between sidewalks is a fairly dangerous maneuver. If you do it on the left-hand side of the street, you risk getting slammed as per the diagram. If you do it on the right-hand side of the street, you risk getting slammed by a car behind you that's turning right.  Sidewalk riding also makes you vulnerable to cars pulling out of parking lots or driveways.  And you're threatening to pedestrians on the sidewalk, who could get hurt if you hit them.  These kinds of accidents are hard to avoid, which is a compelling reason to not ride on the sidewalk in the first place.  In addition, riding on the sidewalk is illegal in some places.

Some special sidewalks are safe to ride on.  If the sidewalk is really long (no need to frequently cross streets), and free of driveways and peds, then there's little risk to you and others.  Just make sure when you do cross a street or driveway that you slow down considerably and that you check the traffic in all directions, especially behind you if you're riding with the flow of traffic.

Collision Type #4:

The Wrong-Way Wreck

You're riding the wrong way (against traffic, on the left-hand side of the street). A car makes a right turn from a side street, driveway, or parking lot, right into you. They didn't see you because they were looking for traffic only on their left, not on their right. They had no reason to expect that someone would be coming at them from the wrong direction.

Even worse, you could be hit by a car on the same road coming at you from straight ahead of you. They had less time to see you and take evasive action because they're approaching you faster than normal (because you're going towards them rather than away from them). And if they hit you, it's going to be much more forceful impact, for the same reason. (Both your and their velocities are combined.)

How to avoid this collision:

Don't ride against traffic. Ride with traffic, in the same direction.

Riding against traffic may seem like a good idea because you can see the cars that are passing you, but it's not. Here's why:

  1. Cars which pull out of driveways, parking lots, and cross streets (ahead of you and to the left), which are making a right onto your street, aren't expecting traffic to be coming at them from the wrong way. They won't see you, and they'll plow right into you.
  2. How the heck are you going to make a right turn?
  3. Cars will approach you at a much higher relative speed. If you're going 15mph, then a car passing you from behind doing 35 approaches you at a speed of only 20 (35-15). But if you're on the wrong side of the road, then the car approaches you at 50 (35+15), which is more than twice as fast! Since they're approaching you faster, both you and the driver have lots less time to react. And if a collision does occur, it's going to be ten times worse.
  4. Riding the wrong way is illegal and you can get ticketed for it.

One study showed that riding the wrong way was three times as dangerous as riding the right way, and for kids, the risk is seven times greater. (source)

Nearly one-fourth of crashes involve cyclists riding the wrong way. (source) Some readers have challenged this, saying if 25% of crashes are from going the wrong way, then riding the right way is more dangerous because it accounts for 75% of crashes. That thinking is wrong. First off, only 8% of cyclists ride the wrong way, yet nearly 25% of them get hit -- meaning wrong-way cyclists really are three times more likely to get hit than those who ride the proper way. Second, the problem with wrong-way biking is that it promotes crashes, while right-way biking does not. For example, cyclists running stop signs or red lights is 17% of their crashes. (source) But do we therefore conclude that not running signals causes 83% of crashes?! (Hint: No.)

Collision Type #5:

Red Light of Death

You stop to the right of a car that's already waiting at a red light or stop sign. They can't see you. When the light turns green, you move forward, and then they turn right, right into you. Even small cars can do you in this way, but this scenario is especially dangerous when it's a bus or a semi that you're stopping next to. An Austin cyclist was killed in 1994 when he stopped to the right of a semi, and then it turned right. He was crushed under its wheels.

How to avoid this collision:

Don't stop in the blind spot. Simply stop BEHIND a car, instead of to the right of it, as per the diagram below. This makes you very visible to traffic on all sides. It's impossible for the car behind you to avoid seeing you when you're right in front of it.

Another option is to stop at either point A in the diagram above (where the first driver can see you), or at point B, behind the first car so it can't turn into you, and far enough ahead of the second car so that the second driver can see you clearly. It does no good to avoid stopping to the right of the first car if you're going to make the mistake of stopping to the right of the second car. EITHER car can do you in.

If you chose spot A, then ride quickly to cross the street as soon as the light turns green. Don't look at the motorist to see if they want to go ahead and turn. If you're in spot A and they want to turn, then you're in their way. Why did you take spot A if you weren't eager to cross the street when you could? When the light turns green, just go, and go quickly. (But make sure cars aren't running the red light on the cross street, of course.)

If you chose spot B, then when the light turns green, DON'T pass the car in front of you -- stay behind it, because it might turn right at any second. If it doesn't make a right turn right away, it may turn right into a driveway or parking lot unexpectedly at any point. Don't count on drivers to signal! They don't. Assume that a car can turn right at any time. (NEVER pass a car on the right!) But try to stay ahead of the car behind you until you're through the intersection, because otherwise they might try to cut you off as they turn right.

While we're not advocating running red lights, notice it is in fact safer to run the red light if there's no cross traffic, than it is to wait legally at the red light directly to the right of a car, only to have it make a right turn right into you when the light turns green. The moral here is not that you should break the law, but that you can easily get hurt even if you follow the law.

By the way, be very careful when passing stopped cars on the right as you approach a red light. You run the risk of getting doored by a passenger exiting the car on the right side, or hit by a car that unexpectedly decides to pull into a parking space on the right side of the street.

Collision Type #6:

The Right Hook

A car passes you and then tries to make a right turn directly in front of you, or right into you. They think you're not going very fast just because you're on a bicycle, so it never occurs to them that they can't pass you in time. Even if you have to slam on your brakes to avoid hitting them, they often won't feel they've done anything wrong. This kind of collision is very hard to avoid because you typically don't see it until the last second, and because there's nowhere for you to go when it happens.

How to avoid this collision:

1. Don't ride on the sidewalk. When you come off the sidewalk to cross the street you're invisible to motorists. You're just begging to be hit if you do this. Keith Vick was killed this way in Austin, TX in Dec. 2002.

2. Ride to the left. Taking up the whole lane makes it harder for drivers to pass you to cut you off or turn into you. Don't feel bad about taking the lane: if motorists didn't threaten your life by turning in front of or into you or passing you too closely, then you wouldn't have to. If the lane you're in isn't wide enough for cars to pass you safely, then you should be taking the whole lane anyway. Lane position is discussed in more detail below.

3. Glance in your mirror before approaching an intersection. (If you don't have a handlebar or helmet mirror, get one now.) Be sure to look in your mirror well before you get to the intersection. When you're actually going through an intersection, you'll need to be paying very close attention to what's in front of you.

Collision Type #7:

The Right Hook, Pt. 2

You're passing a slow-moving car (or even another bike) on the right, when it unexpectedly makes a right turn right into you, trying to get to a parking lot,driveway or side street.

How to avoid this collision:

1. Don't pass on the right. This collision is very easy to avoid. Just don't pass any vehicle on the right. If a car ahead of you is going only 10 mph, then you slow down, too, behind it. It will eventually start moving faster. If it doesn't, pass on the left when it's safe to do so.

When passing cyclists on the left, announce "on your left" before you start passing, so they don't suddenly move left into you. (Of course, they're much less likely to suddenly move left without looking, where they could be hit by traffic, then to suddenly move right, into a destination.) If they're riding too far to the left for you to pass safely on the left, then announce "on your right" before passing on the right.

If several cars are stopped at a light, then you can try passing on the right cautiously. Remember that someone can fling open the passenger door unexpectedly as they exit the car. Also remember that if you pass on the right and traffic starts moving again unexpectedly, you may suffer #3, the Red Light of Death.

Note that when you're tailing a slow-moving vehicle, ride behind it, not in its blind spot immediately to the right of it. Even if you're not passing a car on the right, you could still run into it if it turns right while you're right next to it. Give yourself enough room to brake if it turns.

2. Look behind you before turning right. Here's your opportunity to avoid hitting cyclists who violate tip #1 above and try to pass you on the right. Look behind you before making a right-hand turn to make sure a bike isn't trying to pass you. (Also remember that they could be coming up from behind you on the sidewalk while you're on the street.) Even if it's the other cyclist's fault for trying to pass you on the right when you make a right turn and have them slam into you, it won't hurt any less when they hit you.

Collision Type #8:

The Left Cross

A car coming towards you makes a left turn right in front of you, or right into you. This is similar to #1, above. Austin cyclists hit this way include Dr. Lee Chilton, John Howell (former president of the Austin Cycling Association), and Janne Osborne.

How to avoid this collision:

1. Don't ride on the sidewalk. When you come off the sidewalk to cross the street, you're invisible to turning motorists.

2. Get a headlight. If you're riding at night, you should absolutely use a front headlight. It's required by law in most countries, anyway.

3. Wear something bright, even during the day. It may seem silly, but bikes are small and easy to see through even during the day. Yellow or orange reflective vests really make a big difference. Reflective leg bands are also easy and inexpensive.

4. Don't pass on the right. Don't overtake slow-moving vehicles on the right. Doing so makes you invisible to left-turning motorists at intersections. Passing on the right means that the vehicle you're passing could also make a right turn right into you, too.

5. Slow down. If you can't make eye contact with the driver (especially at night), slow down so much that you're able to completely stop if you have to. Sure, it's inconvenient, but it beats getting hit.

 

Collision Type #9:

The Rear End

You innocently move a little to the left to go around a parked car or some other obstruction in the road, and you get nailed by a car coming up from behind.

How to avoid this collision:

1. Never, ever move left without looking behind you first. Some motorists like to pass cyclists within mere inches, so moving even a tiny bit to the left unexpectedly could put you in the path of a car. Practice holding a straight line while looking over your shoulder until you can do it perfectly. Most new cyclists tend to move left when they look behind them, which of course can be disastrous.

2. Don't swerve in and out of the parking lane if it contains any parked cars. You might be tempted to ride in the parking lane where there are no parked cars, dipping back into the traffic lane when you encounter a parked car. This puts you at risk for getting nailed from behind. Instead, ride a steady, straight line in the traffic lane.

3. Use a mirror. If you don't have one, get one from a bike shop or an online shop right now. There are models that fit on your handlebars, helmet, or glasses, as you prefer. You should always physically look back over your shoulder before moving left, but having a mirror still helps you monitor traffic without constantly having to look behind you.

4. Signal. Never move left without signaling. Just put your left arm straight out. Be sure to check your mirror or loo behind you before signaling (since a car passing too closely can take your arm out).

Collision Type #10:

The Rear End, Pt. 2

A car runs into you from behind. This is what many cyclists fear the most, but it's actually not very common, comprising only 3.8% of collisions. (source) However, it's one of the hardest collisions to avoid, since you're not usually looking behind you. The risk is likely greater at night, and in rides outside the city where traffic is faster and lighting is worse. The three cyclists killed when hit from behind in Austin in 96-97 were all riding at night, and at least two of them didn't have lights on their bikes. (source) The best way to avoid getting Rear-Ended is to ride on very wide roads or in bike lanes, or on roads where the traffic moves slowly, and to use lights when biking at night.

How to avoid this collision:

1. Get a rear light. If you're riding at night, you absolutely should use a flashing red rear light. Bruce Mackey (formerly of Florida, now head of bike safety in Nevada) says that 60% of bike collisions in Florida are caused by cyclists riding at night without lights. In 1999, 39% of deaths on bicycles nationwide occurred between 6 p.m. and midnight. [USA Today, 10-22-01, attributed to the Insurance Institute for highway safety]

Bike shops have red rear blinkies for $15 or less. These kind of lights typically take two AA batteries, which last for months (something like 200 hours). I can't stress this item enough: If you ride at night, get a rear light!

2. Wear a reflective vest or a safety triangle. High quality reflective gear makes you a lot more visible even in the day time, not just at night. I had a friend ride away from me while wearing one during the day, and when she was about a quarter mile away, I couldn't see her or her bike at all, but the vest was clearly visible. At night the difference is even greater. Bike shops have vests and triangles for $10 to $15. Also, when you hear a motorist approaching, straightening up into a vertical position will make your reflective gear more noticeable.

3. Choose wide streets. Ride on streets whose outside lane is so wide that it can easily fit a car and a bike side by side. That way a car may zoom by you and avoid hitting you, even if they didn't see you!

4. Choose slow streets. The slower a car is going, the more time the driver has to see you. I navigate the city by going through neighborhoods. Learn how to do this.

5. Use back streets on weekends. The risk of riding on Friday or Saturday night is much greater than riding on other nights because all the drunks are out driving around. If you do ride on a weekend night, make sure to take neighborhood streets rather than arterials.

6. Get a mirror. Get a mirror and use it. If it looks like a car doesn't see you, hop off your bike and onto the sidewalk. Mirrors cost $5-15. Trust me, once you've ridden a mirror for a while, you'll wonder how you got along without it. My paranoia went down 80% after I got a mirror. If you're not convinced, after you've used your mirror for a month, take it off your bike and ride around and notice how you keep glancing down to where your mirror was, and notice how unsafe you feel without it.

7. Don't hug the curb. This is counter-intuitive, but give yourself a little space between yourself and the curb. That gives you some room to move into in case you see a large vehicle in your mirror approaching without moving over far enough to avoid you. Also, when you hug the curb tightly you're more likely to suffer a right cross from motorists who can't see you.

New additions:

Sample Fan Mail

Fantastic web site!  I've been a bicycle commuter for about 13 years now and I think you've nailed it very nicely.  I was recently clipped while passing a slow-moving truck and trailer on the right in a dedicated right-turn lane.  I've ridden the same route for over 6 years but failed to follow your advice about busy roads [and about not passing on the right!]. During that time traffic got worse and worse while I became more and more complacent.  While passing that truck and trailer, a dually pickup passing me up on my left, caught my handlebar with its rear flared out fender, and took me down in a busy intersection.  We were both going about the same speed so it was the pavement that did the hurting, but we were doing about 30mph.  My helmet was crushed from the impact and I broke 3 ribs along with the usual road rash and a perforation in one arm from some road debris.  Obviously I was lucky, the helmet worked so well, I didn't even gat a headache.  But it points out the need to reassess your route periodically and be willing to change your route accordingly.  --Adam Fischer, Riverside, CA

I just read your BicycleSafe article. I've been riding in cities (mainly Cleveland and Winnipeg) for 45 years or so. I've experienced all of the types of incident you describe. Fortunately I only got knocked off the bike once many years ago - a left cross in a thunderstorm going too fast with a gale behind me - dummy! Bike brakes don't work as well in the rain and drivers don't have the visibility.

I'd encourage cyclists to keep the speed below about 15 MPH in city traffic. At that speed, I find I have the reaction time and stopping distance to handle most emergencies.

Thanks for posting the article. I bet you save a few lives! --Alan McIlwain, August 2006

I just wanted to let you know how much I appreciated your Bicycle Safety site. I biked to work for the first time here in S.F. today, and although my time on a motorcycle made me rightfully paranoid, I see I made a lot of small mistakes that could add up to a big problem some unlucky day.  So, I totally appreciate that you took the time to put bicyclesafe.com together. --Josh Krist, author of San Francisco: The Unknown City, June 2006

Thanks for your site. I just experienced the Right Hook Part 1 yesterday. Your site makes me feel better knowing that these things happen to bicyclists everywhere. Anywho, thanks! -- Natalie Ma, May 2006

Your website is great! I've been biking to work every day for a year and a half, and I really wish I had seen your site first. I'm referring people (especially those who have never bike commuted) to your site now as I'm coordinating a Bike to Work Day event at my office. Your approach to safe, defensive bike riding and the illustrations you use are greatly appreciated! Many thanks! -- Jessi Hafer, Fresno, CA, May 2006

See more fan mail.


Safe Road Riding Game/Quiz

The Pennsylvania Dept. of Transportation has an excellent Safe Road Riding Game/Quiz. Most bike safety stuff I see tells you little more than to wear your helmet and follow the law -- as though it were that easy to be safe. But PennDOT's quiz presents real-world scenarios: How do you avoid that car door opening in front of you? What do you do when you're approaching a sewer grate? Good stuff.


Reflective Stickers

Stickers help you be seen by cars, even during the day. Here are some sites selling reflective stickers and tape:


Lighting

These are neat:


Reflective Clothing


Other Bicycle Safety Resources

Ken Kifer's Bike Safety pages

Urban Cycling's directory of bike safety advice from various sources

Bicycle Safety equipment

 

Book:
The Art of Urban Cycling

The Urban Cycling Manual dismantles the urban cycling experience and slides it under the microscope, piece by piece. Author Robert Hurst discusses how, in America, bicyclists were an afterthought at best when our cities were planned and built, and today are left to navigate through a hard and unsympathetic world that was not made for them--like rats in a sewer. Yet, with the proper attitude and a bit of knowledge, urban cyclists will thrive in this hostile environment. The primary concern is safety, but this book goes well beyond the usual tips and how-to, diving in to the realms of history, psychology, sociology, and economics. It empowers readers with the Big Picture of urban cycling--and gives urban cyclists many useful insights to consider while pedaling the next commute or grocery run. Riding a bike in the city will never be the same. -- by the publisher

$14.95 - Buy Now


Bicycle Safety Statistics

Our sister site has everything we know about bicycle safety statistics. That's it, that's all we have, no need to ask if we have anything more.


Why you don't see "wear a helmet" advice plastered all over this site

Everybody asks about this one, so here's the answer.


Links

See the other sites which link to us.


Note to "Effective Cycling" fans

If you're about to send me an email telling me how stupid the advice on this site is, please save yourself the trouble. Trust me, I've heard all the arguments before (ad nauseum) and I simply disagree. I never write to EC websites to complain that I don't like their advice, so there's no need for you to complain about mine. (Here's more about the the difference of opinion for those wondering what the fuss is about.)


Reprint & Link Permission

I'm happy to share this information with others at no cost. Permission to reprint is given freely, subject to the following provisions:

  • Linking. Feel free to link to this page. The direct url is http://BicycleSafe.com. Here's a list of sites which link to us. If you'd like to link with a banner, feel free to use the How to Not Get Hit banner near the top of this page.
  • Reproduction on websites. Feel free to reproduce any or all of the "How to Not Get Hit" article on your website, with or without modification. (Note that you will need to host the images yourself.) Just make sure to link back to this site in the credits of your page.
  • Reproduction in printed form. Feel free to reproduce this content in printed form (newsletter, ride brochure, etc.), with or without modification, but please list BicycleSafe.com or Michael Bluejay in the credits.
  • Your publication must be free. You're free to republish this info and redistribute it for free, but you can't charge for it. Daily/weekly newspapers and newsletters that go out only to paid members of a cycling club are okay.

The contents of BicycleSafe.com are Copyright ?998-2008 by Michael Bluejay and may not be sold for profit.


Disclaimer

I have developed this page to provide what I believe is very good advice to help you avoid getting hit by cars. But of course, bicycling will never be 100% safe, and I can't guarantee you won't get hit by a car, even if you follow all the advice on this page. (Naturally, I believe if you follow this advice you will be much less likely to suffer a collision than if you ignore it.) Ultimately, you are responsible for your own safety.


A plug for another site of mine. I was born into a cult called Aesthetic Realism. Recently I created a website to share my experiences as a former member. You can visit it at my Aesthetic Realism site.
More General Tips

Avoid busy streets.

One of the biggest mistakes that people make when they start biking is to take the exact same routes they used when they were driving.  It's usually better to take different streets with fewer and slower cars.  Sure, cyclists have a right to the road, but that's a small consolation when you're dead.  Consider how far you can take this strategy:  If you learn your routes well, you'll find that in many cities you can travel through neighborhoods to get to most places, only crossing the busiest streets rather than traveling on them.

Light up.

Too obvious?  Well, if it's so obvious, then why do most night-time cyclists ride without lights?  Bike shops have rear red blinkies for $15 or less.  Headlights are just as important as rear lights.  Look for the new kind with LED's since they last ten times as long on a set of batteries as old-style lights.


One cyclist tied this bright noodle to the back of his bike, exactly the width of his handlebars, to show drivers how much space he takes up on the road.

Take the whole lane when appropriate.

It's often safer to take the whole lane, or at least ride a little bit to the left, rather than hug the right curb. Here's why:

  • Cars at intersections ahead of you can see you better if you're squarely in the road rather than on the extreme edge where you're easily overlooked.
  • Taking the lane prevents cars from passing you too closely on narrow roadways.
  • Riding a bit to the left prevents you from being a victim of the door prize.

You might worry about slowing down the traffic behind you if you take the lane.  But if you're on the kind of street where you've got cars blocked up behind you or constantly changing lanes to get around you, you're probably on the wrong street and should find a quieter neighborhood street.

Taking the lane works especially well in most traffic circles.  The traffic generally moves slower so it's easy to keep up, riding in the lane makes you more visible to motorists, and taking the lane prevents motorists from right hooking you as they exit the circle.

It's perfectly legal for you to take the lane when appropriate.  Texas State Law (and the laws of most other states) says you have to ride as far to the right as is "practicable".  Here are some things that make it impracticable to ride to the extreme right:

  1. You're in a heavy traffic area with lots of side streets, parking lots, or driveways ahead and to your right.  Cars turning left won't see you because they're looking for traffic in the middle of the road, not on the extreme edge of the road.  Move left. See Collision diagram #1 above.
  2. Cars are passing you too closely.  If the lane is too narrow for cars to pass you safely, then move left and take the whole lane.  Getting buzzed by cars is dangerous.
  3. Cars are parked on the right-hand side of the road.  If you ride too close to these you're gonna get doored when someone gets out of their car.  Move left.

There are risks to both riding to the extreme right as well as taking the lane.  Whether you ride to the right or take the lane depends on the conditions of the roadway you're on.  On wide roadways with few intersections/driveways, right further right.  On narrow roads with lots of intersections, ride farther to the left.   It's not always better to take the lane or to hug the curb; it depends on the roadway you're on.

Signal your turns.

You're less likely to get hit when your movement doesn't take motorists by surprise. Let them know you're about to turn or move left or right by signalling with your arm. Point your left arm out to move left, and point your right arm out to move right. (You might have learned an old way of signaling a right turn with your left arm, but drivers have no idea what that means, so it's useless. Signal a right turn with your right arm.) Before signaling left, be sure to check your mirror or loo behind you before signaling (since a car passing too closely can take your arm out).

Re-think music players and mobile phones.

It's more important to hear what's around you when you're biking than when you're driving. Whether you want to ride with headphones is your choice, but doing so does increase your risk. Similarly, texting or talking with a mobile phone raises the risk level. When you're mixing with car traffic, the fewer distractions the better. Also, you'll want both hands free in case you have to brake suddenly.

Ride as if you were invisible.

It's often helpful to ride in such a way that motorists won't hit you even if they don't see you. You're not trying to be invisible, you're trying to make it irrelevant whether cars see you or not. If you ride in such a way that a car has to see you to take action to avoid hitting you (e.g., by their slowing down or changing lanes), then that means they will definitely hit you if they don't see you. But if you stay out of their way, then you won't get hit even if they didn't notice you were there.

On very fast roads cars have less time to see you because they're approaching so fast. Of course, you should avoid fast roads in the first place if at all possible, unless there's plenty of room for a car and a bike side by side. And if there IS such room, then on fast roadways, you can practice invisibility by riding to the extreme right. If you're far enough right that you're not in the part of the lane the cars are in, then they'll zoom by and won't hit you, even if they never saw you.

Here's another example: It's a good idea to signal a left turn, but it's a better idea to make your left turn at a time or place where there aren't cars behind you that could hit you while you're stopped and waiting to make that turn. You can hang out in the middle of the street, stopped, with your left arm out, waiting to make your turn, but you're counting on cars behind you to see you and stop. If they don't see you, you're in trouble.

Naturally we don't advocate running red lights, but if you're the kind of person who does, then apply the invisibility principle when deciding on whether to run a particular light: Could any cross traffic possibly hit me if I were invisible? If yes, then absolutely don't do it. Never make a car have to slow down to avoid hitting you (red light or not). Remember, the more you rely on cars to see you to avoid hitting you, the more chances they'll have to actually do so.

Remember, you're not trying to BE invisible, you're just riding with the assumption that cars can't see you. Of course, you certainly want them to see you, and you should help them with that. That's why you'll wave to motorists whom you think might be about to pull out in front of you, and why you'll be lit up like a Christmas tree at night (front and rear lights).

Remember that in many cases you'll need to take the lane, in which case you're counting on motorists to see you.


And

Who's Elitist? - http://www.labreform.org/elitism.htm

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Who's Elitist?

The safest and most efficient method of operating a bicycle is driving on the same roads, following the same rules and enjoying the same rights as the drivers of other vehicles.  This is sometimes called Vehicular Cycling [1].

Some people who call themselves "Bicycle Advocates" [2] often try to disparage these best practices by calling us "elitist".

We have the interesting situation where the elite are not elitist and the elitists are not elite.

There seems to be a consensus that only a small minority of cyclists ride according to the best cycling practices.  Some estimate this minority at five percent.  Since these cyclists are so few and their knowledge level is much higher than the average we may call them elite.

However, if you talk to "elite" cyclists, they will tell you that almost anyone can learn to cycle as they do.  The most difficult thing is getting over the miseducation and superstition that affects most people in our society -- and it is difficult to get people to accept the idea that there really is something to learn about bicycle operation.  Elite cyclists are quite willing to share their knowledge.

In other words, though they may be elite, these knowledgeable cyclists are certainly not elitist.

Now, on the other hand, we have the typical bicycle advocate who does not know how to ride in the vehicular style [3], and is unwilling to even try to learn.  These people are not elite.  However, they feel that the skills required for vehicular cycling are beyond the ability of the average person [4].  That is an elitist attitude.

Thus we have the interesting situation where the elite are not elitist and the elitists are not elite.


Footnotes

[1] See Wikipedia article on Vehicular cycling

[2] "Bicycle advocates" are people who champion the bicycle for some other cause, such as "getting people out of cars", "livable cities", fighting obesity, etc.  We have no problem with these causes per-se but we think their "ends justify the means" approach is unethical when they treat cyclists as pawns to be sacrificed for the cause.

[3] There are a few "bicycle advocates" who really do know how to ride properly (and they ride this way themselves because they know it's safer).  However, they believe that the average person cannot be taught what they know.  These people are both elite and elitist.

[4] This claim of elitism presented by bicycle advocates does not concern the best and safest way to cycle; they show little interest in the welfare of cyclists.  Instead it is presented as part of their other agendas (as mentioned in note 2 above).  The public believes that bikeways make it safe to ride the way they learned as children, and that cycling on busy roads without bikeways is dangerous and requires an elite level of skill.  Bicycle advocates fear that if people realize that safe cycling requires a bit of learning it will create an impediment to getting more "butts on bikes".

For an interesting essay on why people denigrate elite things for political ends, see Best Is the New Worst


And

Forté™ Apollo Wheels

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Forté™ Apollo Wheels

Built for endurance riding, long distance training or competitive racing, this value-driven wheelset perfectly blends lightweight aerodynamics with solid construction and performance.

  • Deep 30mm aero rim cuts through the wind while providing a rigid, stable and powerful ride
  • 6061 alloy construction offers lightweight stiffness and stability
  • Front hub with two sealed bearings and alloy axle produce low resistance, maximize rolling fluidity and are virtually maintenance-free
  • Rear hub with four sealed bearings, one needle bearing and chromoly axle produce low resistance, maximize rolling fluidity and are virtually maintenance-free
  • Machined braking surface delivers smooth, controlled braking action and eliminates shuddering
  • Double butted, 14/15 gauge stainless steel spokes add strength and resilience

Specs:
Weight: 715g (front), 935g (rear)
Tire Size: 700c
Tire Type: Clincher
Hub: Forté™
Spacing: 100mm (front), 130mm (rear)
Spokes: Stainless Steel
Spoke Count: 20 (front), 24 (rear)
Lacing Pattern: 2-Cross
Skewers Included: Yes
Rim Height: 30mm
Rim Width: 18.4mm
Compatibility: Shimano® 8/9/10
Accessories Included: None

Forté Apollo Front Wheel

Built for endurance riding, long distance training or competitive racing, this value-driven bike wheel perfectly blends lightweight aerodynamics with solid construction and performance.

  • Deep 30mm aero rim cuts through the wind while providing a rigid, stable and powerful ride
  • 6061 alloy construction offers lightweight stiffness and stability
  • Hub with two sealed bearings and alloy axle produce low resistance, maximize rolling fluidity and are virtually maintenance-free
  • Machined braking surface delivers smooth, controlled braking action and eliminates shuddering
  • 20 (2x) double butted, 14/15 gauge stainless steel spokes add strength and resilience

 

 

ACCESSORIES INCLUDED:   None
COMPATIBILITY:   Shimano 8/9/10
HUB:   Forté
LACING PATTERN:   2-Cross
RIM HEIGHT:   30mm
RIM WIDTH:   18.4mm
SKEWERS INCLUDED:   Yes
SPACING:   100mm
SPOKE COUNT:   20
SPOKES:   Stainless Steel
TIRE SIZE:   700c
TIRE TYPE:   Clincher
WEIGHT:   715g

Forté Apollo Front Wheel

Forté Apollo Rear Wheel

Built for endurance riding, long distance training or competitive racing, this value-driven bike wheel perfectly blends lightweight aerodynamics with solid construction and performance.

  • Deep 30mm aero rim cuts through the wind while providing a rigid, stable and powerful ride
  • 6061 alloy construction offers lightweight stiffness and stability
  • Hub with four sealed bearings, one needle bearing and chromoly axle produce low resistance, maximize rolling fluidity and are virtually maintenance-free
  • Machined braking surface delivers smooth, controlled braking action and eliminates shuddering
  • 24 (2x) double butted, 14/15 gauge stainless steel spokes add strength and resilience

 

ACCESSORIES INCLUDED:   None
COMPATIBILITY:   Shimano 8/9/10
HUB:   Forté
LACING PATTERN:   2-Cross
RIM HEIGHT:   30mm
RIM WIDTH:   18.4mm
SKEWERS INCLUDED:   Yes
SPACING:   130mm
SPOKE COUNT:   24
SPOKES:   Stainless Steel
TIRE SIZE:   700c
TIRE TYPE:   Clincher
WEIGHT:   935g

Forté Apollo Rear Wheel



And

Cycling Savvy: "Why are you riding in the middle of the lane?" - http://clipmarks.com/clipmark/0B727D27-CE14-492F-B76D-DE921B5785EF/

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Driving in the middle of the lane actually protects cyclists against the most common motorist-caused crashes: sideswipes, right hooks, left crosses, and drive-outs.  A bicycle driver’s top safety priority is to ensure he or she can be seen by motorists with whom they might potentially be in conflict, and bicycling in the middle of a lane is one of the most effective ways to do that.  Most overtaking crashes involve a motorist who attempts to squeeze past (illegally) in a lane that is too narrow to share.


 



This is the width of a typical lane with vehicles drawn to scale. None of the above vehicles are able to give the required 3ft of passing clearance without changing lanes. A cyclist is far more likely to be sideswiped than run over.


Keeping to the right can often hide a bicyclist from a turning motorist at the critical time and place. Check out this animation to see all the hazards a bicycle driver faces when trying to stay to the right.


And

7 Ways to Be a Jerk on a Bike Tour - http://www.active.com/cycling/Articles/7-Ways-to-Be-a-Cycling-Jerk-on-an-Organized-Tour.htm?cmp=276&memberid=107127128&lyrisid=20820590

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7 Ways to Be a Jerk on a Bike Tour

Group Tour
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Completing a century ride, a Gran Fondo or a multi-day bike tour is really fun. For many people, it brings out abilities that might have remained untapped if it weren't for the camaraderie of other cyclists. There is always someone faster, stronger, slower and less able than you and seeing someone you might not expect to be riding, or riding so strong, can be very inspiring.

During these events, it's essential that all cyclists be good citizens and have respect for other people. A mutual respect for vehicles and fellow cyclists goes a long way to contributing to the fun factor and keeping everyone safe.

Unfortunately, there are some cyclists making bone-headed moves that put themselves, and perhaps others, in danger. In some cases it's tough to tell if a dorky move is due to fatigue, low blood sugar or if the person is just a jerk.

Few people aim to be a jerk, but it seems that there is some small segment of the population that puts solid effort into jerkism. If your aim is to be a cycling jerk, here are seven tips that will help secure your title:

#1: When passing slower cyclists, keep quiet, and pass close and surprisingly quick.

Polite cyclists prefer to call out "on your left" to let slower riders know they are about to pass. Those riding in a paceline will often call out "line on your left" or "riders on your left". Riders in the line will let the slower riders know there are several more riders passing. Passing riders should give the cyclist enough room on a pass, while being courteous and safe with approaching motorists.

If you want be a jerk, buzz the slower cyclist while smugly thinking, "I don't need to let them know, after all they should know that they're slow and faster riders will pass them. Additionally, I just get tired of saying 'on your left' all the time. I'm so fast."

#2: Don't look over your left shoulder when you move to pass someone or when you move into a traffic lane.

Cyclists that prefer to remain safe and live to ride another day will look over their left shoulder to see if traffic or other cyclists are approaching before they make a move.

Support vehicles tell me that they constantly see cyclists on organized rides behave as if the roads are closed and they can dart into the lane of traffic anytime they please. This kind of behavior is dangerous for everyone involved, but that fact doesn't seem to faze a cycling jerk.

#3: When riding with a group of friends, ride three and four abreast. If the bike lane is big enough to ride three or more abreast, while still allowing room for other cyclists to safely pass your group on the left side without going into traffic, go ahead and ride several riders abreast. Courteous riders will often check over their shoulders to see if they are still sharing the bike lane and being safe, while riding abreast.

Cycling jerks will do their own thing, riding multiple people abreast, while expecting everyone else to accommodate their little group. After all, the jerks paid their fee and now they expect personal privileges and service--dammit!

#4: Your group is riding in a paceline and you are going fast enough that you can pass most other riders. Ride as far left in the bike lane as possible because you're so darn good.

The very best riders are well-mannered. They do indeed ride fast; but after they have made a pass they move as far to the right side of the bike lane or road as possible.

Cycling jerks block other riders and force faster groups to slow down and create a traffic jam; pass on the right side of the jerk group; or force faster riders into the traffic lane even though the bike lane is big enough. Jerks shout out, "This is not a race!" to anyone that rides faster than they do. The biggest jerks force passing riders across rumble strips while taking up the entire five foot shoulder. Yes, big jerks are dangerous to others.

#5: When people call out "on your left" and you have plenty of room to move to your right, making it safer for others to pass--don't do it.

Good riders want safety for themselves and others. They would never want to be the cause of harm to another cyclist. When someone calls "on your left" they prepare themselves for the pass by moving as far to the right of the lane as safely possible and they hold a straight line.

Jerks do not want to move at all and don't care if they put others in danger. "They can go around me," the jerks think.

#6: When your group is in a paceline and riding very fast, get around slower riders without slowing your pace--even if that means creating problems for vehicular traffic or making dangerous moves close to slower riders.

Good riders know that they do not need to pass slower riders the instant they cross paths, if doing so puts anyone in danger. They will wait for the appropriate time to pass, even if it means slowing down for a few minutes. The best riders want to ride again tomorrow, so making moves that could cause a crash are simply not worth it.

Cycling jerks do not want to slow down or be impeded by anyone or anything. They are in "the zone" and want to hammer away, regardless of anyone else (traffic or other cyclists). They are in the zone alright, the jerk zone.

#7: Do not point out obstacles or hazards in the road.

Civil riders on a big tour know that pointing out hazards is the right thing to do, even if they are pointing out hazards for people they don't know.

Jerks, on the other hand, figure that everyone should be responsible for their own well being and other riders should look out for hazards on their own. Jerks will swerve quickly around a hazard, not alerting other cyclists to the hazard and allowing no time for cyclists behind them to react. In jerk-world it's every rider for his or her self.

On long rides, nearly everyone makes an occasional mistake due to fatigue or low energy. Riders that make knucklehead moves apologize and try not to let it happen again. Jerks have no remorse for bad moves and huge egos override common courtesy.

If you don't want someone to hand you a card that says, "Good job, you're a jerk" or if you don't want to be the cause of harm to yourself or others; avoid the tips for being a jerk. Instead, do what a respectful, poised cyclist would do.

And

Alex A-class ALX200 wheelset

|
 
MODEL
ALX200
FRONT
REAR
20H
24H
RIM
700C BK ANOD. W/CSW

700C BK ANOD. W/CSW
HUB
MACHINE BALL BEARING
BK ANOD.

MACHINE BALL BEARING
BK ANOD.
SPOKE
DT BK SPOKES
DT BK SPOKES
LACE
RADIAL
R: 2 CROSS
L: 2 CROSS
WEIGHT
860g
220 1120g

And

Building Blocks of all Foods (Protein) - http://www.cptips.com/protein.htm

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Building Blocks of all Foods
Protein


Protein is used to repair cell injuries (muscles particularly) from the microscopic trauma that occurs with exercise. It is NOT a good energy source, and serves that purpose only in malnourished states. Even in endurance activities such as the Tour De france, protein needs of 1.5 gms protein/kg body wt/day were easily met by a normal (read unsupplemented) diet that replaced the total Calories used each day.

All protein molecules are composed of building blocks called amino acids. Most protein digestion occurs in the small intestine where protein molecules are first split into their component amino acids which are then absorbed by the intestinal lining, transported via the circulatory system, and taken up by cells throughout the body. These amino acids are then used to rebuild cell proteins. Any excess protein in the diet is transformed (metabolised) into carbohydrates (gluconeogenesis) or fat. Protein itself is not stored in the body which means cell repair occurs from protein eaten that day or from amino acids released as protein is broken down elsewhere in the body.

HOW MUCH PROTEIN DO YOU REALLY NEED?

A team of researchers from Kent State University, Ohio, and McMaster University, Ontario, led by Dr. Peter Lemon studied a group of 12 male subjects during two months of resistance training. They found that a protein intake of 81 grams per day (0.99g per kg of bodyweight for a 180 lb male) resulted in a negative nitrogen balance. Nitrogen balance is a measure of protein metabolism. A negative nitrogen balance indicates that the protein needs of the body are not being met and protein is being scavanged from tissue elsewhere in the body to maintain essential body functions. This may lead to reduced gains in muscle mass and strength.

Can you eat too much protein? This group also found that protein intakes above 2.62 grams per kg of bodyweight (214 grams for a 180lb male) provided no additional benefit in terms of nitrogen balance and increased the risk of renal overload and dehydration. Long term studies of large groups show that a high protein/low carbohydrate diet increases the risk of kidney stones and bone loss. These findings were substantiated by a University of Texas study of 10 volunteers on a high protein/low carbohydrte diet for two weeks. Blood uric acid levels (uric acid is a major cause of kidney stones) rose 90% and urinary levels of citrate (which inhibits kidney stone formation) dropped 25%. And finally, any extra protein Calories (beyond what you are expending per day) are stored as fat, not muscle.

Protein is essential for endurance athletes as well as to aid muscle development. As far back as 1983, scientists demonstrated that two hours of exercise can drain the body of essential protein stores. Based on their findings, Dr. Lemon makes the following recommendations for protein intake for strength and endurance athletes:

  • Strength - 1.6-1.7 grams of dietary protein per kg of bodyweight
  • Endurance - 1.2-1.4 grams of dietary protein per kg of bodyweight
The average 70 kg (154 pound) cyclist will need from 80 to 100 grams of protein per day. And for those at the elite level, the requirement may be as high as 1.7 grams of protein per kgm (120 grams for the ideal 70 kg rider). And as active athletes consume more daily Calories, a balanced diet without supplements will meet these increased needs.

A literature review failed to find any support for protein supplements (assuming a balnaced daily diet with the normal distribution of protein intake) compared to a pure carbohydrates diet alone. In fact there is the potential for a DECREASE in overall performance from the appetite suppressing effects of a high protein diet which results in a decrease in carbohydrate intake and diminished pre event muscle glycogen stores.

SOURCES OF PROTEIN

Lean beef, skinless chicken, and fish will provide about 7 grams of protein per ounce. Beans will provide 6 grams per 1/2 cooked cup, and rice (and other cereal grains) about 3 grams per 1/2 cup serving. A cup of milk or yogurt supplies 8 grams of protein. So it's relatively easy to meet your basic protein requirements from 6-8 ounces of meat, 2-3 servings of dairy products, and 6-10 servings of cereal per day.

A HIGH PROTEIN DIET (THE ZONE DIET)

The ZONE is basically a Calorie restreicted, high protein diet used to facilitate weight loss. It has also been proposed as a nutrition strategy to improve athletic performance, reduce body fat and increase muscle mass. It recommends consuming 40% of your daily Caloric intake in the form of carbohydrate, 30% as protein, with fat making up the other 30%. An analysis should give us some insight into the effects of a high protein diet.

If you are a 60 kg (132 pound) cyclist requiring 3000 Calories per day for your training program, a recommendation of 1.5 grams would translate into 90 grams of protein or 10-12% of your overall Calories (there are 4 Calories per gram of protein). However to reach 30% protein, you'd need to consume a massive 225 grams.

Here's what you'd need to eat each day:

  • 1 cup cottage cheese-----28 grams
  • 1 can (3oz) tuna fish----22 grams
  • 3 glasses milk-----------24 grams
  • 8 ounces lean beef-------66 grams
  • 1 cup kidney beans-------13 grams
  • 1/4 cup peanut butter----32 grams
  • 1 chicken breast---------27 grams
  • 3 egg whites-------------12 grams
  • TOTAL-------------------224 grams
However, Dr. Sears doesnt start with your Calorie needs (remember this is a Calorie restricted diet). He starts with your weight and then calculates you protein requirements. Dr. Sears recommends consuming between 0.8 and 1.0g of protein per pound of lean body mass. For an individual weighing 180lb, daily protein intake would work out between 127g and 158g per day. As he recommends that protein represent 30% of daily caloric intake, daily fat consumption (30% of Calories) works out to be 70g, and carbohydrate (40%) is 211g. The daily energy content of the Zone diet for this 180lb individual is approximately 2106 Calories. And that is how it helps you lose weight - the total Calories consumed using this approach is much less than an active athlete needs.

What are the problems with the Zone diet diet for an athlete? As just pointed out, the recommended carbohydrate intake for our 180lb rider was 211g of carbohydrate per day. Such a recommendation is in sharp contrast to the majority of scientific research which proves the need for adequate carbohydrate to support maximal physical performance.

For example, a recent study compared the effects of different levels of carbohydrate intake on the performance of two Swedish ice hockey team. Both teams took part in two games separated by three days. During this three-day gap, the players were assigned to one of two groups. The first group consumed a normal mixed diet that provided around 40% of energy from carbohydrate. Group two had their diet supplemented with extra carbohydrate. Energy from carbohydrate in the second group represented 60% of total energy intake. The study clearly showed an improvement in physical performance in the high carbohydrate group. Simply put, a diet containing only 40% of its calories from carbohydrate was insufficient to meet the energy needs of elite athletes.

The Zone diet's recommendations for daily protein intake are a little closer to the mark. The amount of protein required by those participating in regular exercise sessions remains a topic of considerable debate. Nevertheless, there is research to show that both endurance and strength exercise increase protein requirements.

But the Zone diet can accelerate fat loss. While it does not provide enough energy to meet the needs of a competitive athlete, it does restrict Calories and its emphasis on high levels of protein may also serve to enhance fat loss. A recent Danish study, published in the International Journal of Obesity, compared the effects of a high protein and a high carbohydrate diet on weight loss. A group of 60 subjects followed a restricted Calorie diet for six months. The participants were assigned to either a high carbohydrate or high protein diet. Those on the high protein diet consumed approximately 24% of their Calories from fat, 46% from carbohydrate, and 29% from protein. The diet for subjects on the high carbohydrate diet consisted of 28% from fat, 59% from carbohydrate, and 12% from protein. Scientists found that the high protein group lost almost twice as much fat as those on the high carbohydrate diet.

Notice the similarity between the nutrient distribution in the high protein diet (46/29/24) and the recommendations in the Zone diet (40/30/30). The group following the high protein diet consumed 11.3 Calories for every pound of bodyweight each day - similar to the 11.7 Calories per pound of bodyweight suggested by the Zone diet.

After analyzing the dietary intake of the groups, the research team realized those on the high protein diet had eaten less food. This accounted for the greater weight loss. There were several possible explanations for this reduction in food intake. Protein has a higher satiating (pronounced effect than carbohydrate. In other words, you feel less hungry when consuming a diet high in protein. And a high protein intake seems able to suppress the following days energy intake to a greater extent than carbohydrate.

The bottom line - The Zone diet is essentially a restricted calorie diet. For individuals wanting to lose body fat, there is no reason why the Zone diet would not prove effective. However it is unrealistic to expect that athletes will experience any significant improvements in performance as a result of the Zone diet. The recommendations for both carbohydrate and Caloric intakes are not sufficient to meet the energy requirements of regular daily training.Go high protein/low carbohydrate and you'll be chronically bonked.

WHAT ABOUT PROTEIN SUPPLEMENTS TO A NORMAL DIET?

In his review of the literature (original abstract) on dietary protein supplements, Dr. Richard B Kreider PhD (Department of Human Movement Sciences & Education, The University of Memphis, Memphis, Tennessee 38152. Email: kreider.richard@coe.memphis.edu) concluded that "dietary supplementation of protein beyond that necessary to maintain nitrogen balance does not provide additional benefits for athletes."

Here is an excerpt of his review:

BACKGROUND. Protein and amino acids are among the most common nutritional supplements taken by athletes. This review evaluates the rationale and potential effects on athletic performance of protein, purported anabolic amino acids, branched-chain amino acids, glutamine, creatine, and hydroxymethylbutyrate (HMB). LITERATURE. Two books, 61 research articles, 10 published abstracts, and 19 review articles or book chapters. FINDINGS. Dietary supplementation of protein beyond that necessary to maintain nitrogen balance does not provide additional benefits for athletes. Ingesting carbohydrate with protein prior to or following exercise may reduce catabolism, promote glycogen resynthesis, or promote a more anabolic hormonal environment. Whether employing these strategies during training enhances performance is not yet clear. There is some evidence from clinical studies that certain amino acids (e.g., arginine, histidine, lysine, methionine, ornithine, and phenylalanine) have anabolic effects by stimulating the release of growth hormone, insulin, and/or glucocorticoids, but there is little evidence that supplementation of these amino acids enhances athletic performance. Branched-chain amino acids (leucine, isoleucine, and valine) and glutamine may be involved in exercise-induced central fatigue and immune suppression, but their ergogenic value as supplements is equivocal at present. Most studies indicate that creatine supplementation may be an effective and safe way to enhance performance in intermittent high-intensity exercise and to enhance adaptations to training. Supplementation with hydroxymethylbutyrate appears to reduce catabolism and increase gains in strength and fat-free mass in untrained individuals initiating training; as yet, limited data are available to decide how it affects training adaptations in athletes. CONCLUSIONS. Of the nutrients reviewed, creatine appears to have the greatest ergogenic potential for athletes involved in intense training. FURTHER RESEARCH. All supplements reviewed here need more evaluation for safety and effects on athletic performance.

Potential risks of excessive dietary protein or protein supplements include:

  • skimping on the carbohydrates needed for muscle glycogen repletion (risking the development of chronic fatigue)
  • dehydration
  • potential kidney damage over time
  • and excessive bone loss (as protein increases urinary calcium loss).

THE BOTTOM LINE

Protein is necessary for the active athlete, but more is not necessarily better. And this is especially so if you replace total Caloric needs with protein at the expense of carbvohydarates.
And

San Diego Sunrise & Sunset time

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      Length of day Solar noon
Date Sunrise Sunset This day Difference Time Altitude Distance
(106 km)
Jan 1, 2010 6:51 AM 4:54 PM 10h 02m 45s + 30s 11:52 AM 34.3° 147.095
Jan 2, 2010 6:51 AM 4:54 PM 10h 03m 18s + 33s 11:53 AM 34.4° 147.095
Jan 3, 2010 6:51 AM 4:55 PM 10h 03m 54s + 36s 11:53 AM 34.5° 147.095
Jan 4, 2010 6:51 AM 4:56 PM 10h 04m 33s + 38s 11:54 AM 34.6° 147.096
Jan 5, 2010 6:52 AM 4:57 PM 10h 05m 14s + 41s 11:54 AM 34.8° 147.098
Jan 6, 2010 6:52 AM 4:58 PM 10h 05m 59s + 44s 11:55 AM 34.9° 147.101
Jan 7, 2010 6:52 AM 4:58 PM 10h 06m 45s + 46s 11:55 AM 35.0° 147.105
Jan 8, 2010 6:52 AM 4:59 PM 10h 07m 35s + 49s 11:55 AM 35.1° 147.109
Jan 9, 2010 6:52 AM 5:00 PM 10h 08m 27s + 51s 11:56 AM 35.3° 147.114
Jan 10, 2010 6:52 AM 5:01 PM 10h 09m 21s + 54s 11:56 AM 35.4° 147.120
Jan 11, 2010 6:52 AM 5:02 PM 10h 10m 18s + 56s 11:57 AM 35.6° 147.127
Jan 12, 2010 6:51 AM 5:03 PM 10h 11m 17s + 59s 11:57 AM 35.7° 147.134
Jan 13, 2010 6:51 AM 5:04 PM 10h 12m 18s + 1m 01s 11:57 AM 35.9° 147.142
Jan 14, 2010 6:51 AM 5:05 PM 10h 13m 22s + 1m 03s 11:58 AM 36.1° 147.150
Jan 15, 2010 6:51 AM 5:05 PM 10h 14m 28s + 1m 06s 11:58 AM 36.3° 147.159
Jan 16, 2010 6:51 AM 5:06 PM 10h 15m 37s + 1m 08s 11:58 AM 36.5° 147.168
Jan 17, 2010 6:51 AM 5:07 PM 10h 16m 47s + 1m 10s 11:59 AM 36.7° 147.178
Jan 18, 2010 6:50 AM 5:08 PM 10h 18m 00s + 1m 12s 11:59 AM 36.9° 147.189
Jan 19, 2010 6:50 AM 5:09 PM 10h 19m 14s + 1m 14s 11:59 AM 37.1° 147.200
Jan 20, 2010 6:50 AM 5:10 PM 10h 20m 31s + 1m 16s 12:00 Noon 37.3° 147.211
Jan 21, 2010 6:49 AM 5:11 PM 10h 21m 50s + 1m 18s 12:00 Noon 37.5° 147.224
Jan 22, 2010 6:49 AM 5:12 PM 10h 23m 10s + 1m 20s 12:00 Noon 37.7° 147.237
Jan 23, 2010 6:48 AM 5:13 PM 10h 24m 32s + 1m 22s 12:01 PM 38.0° 147.250
Jan 24, 2010 6:48 AM 5:14 PM 10h 25m 56s + 1m 24s 12:01 PM 38.2° 147.265
Jan 25, 2010 6:47 AM 5:15 PM 10h 27m 22s + 1m 25s 12:01 PM 38.5° 147.280
Jan 26, 2010 6:47 AM 5:16 PM 10h 28m 50s + 1m 27s 12:01 PM 38.7° 147.296
Jan 27, 2010 6:46 AM 5:17 PM 10h 30m 19s + 1m 29s 12:01 PM 39.0° 147.313
Jan 28, 2010 6:46 AM 5:18 PM 10h 31m 49s + 1m 30s 12:02 PM 39.2° 147.331
Jan 29, 2010 6:45 AM 5:19 PM 10h 33m 22s + 1m 32s 12:02 PM 39.5° 147.350
Jan 30, 2010 6:45 AM 5:20 PM 10h 34m 55s + 1m 33s 12:02 PM 39.8° 147.369
Jan 31, 2010 6:44 AM 5:20 PM 10h 36m 30s + 1m 35s 12:02 PM 40.1° 147.390

      Length of day Solar noon
Date Sunrise Sunset This day Difference Time Altitude Distance
(106 km)
Feb 1, 2010 6:43 AM 5:21 PM 10h 38m 07s + 1m 36s 12:02 PM 40.3° 147.411
Feb 2, 2010 6:43 AM 5:22 PM 10h 39m 44s + 1m 37s 12:02 PM 40.6° 147.433
Feb 3, 2010 6:42 AM 5:23 PM 10h 41m 23s + 1m 39s 12:02 PM 40.9° 147.456
Feb 4, 2010 6:41 AM 5:24 PM 10h 43m 04s + 1m 40s 12:02 PM 41.2° 147.480
Feb 5, 2010 6:40 AM 5:25 PM 10h 44m 45s + 1m 41s 12:03 PM 41.5° 147.504
Feb 6, 2010 6:40 AM 5:26 PM 10h 46m 28s + 1m 42s 12:03 PM 41.8° 147.529
Feb 7, 2010 6:39 AM 5:27 PM 10h 48m 12s + 1m 43s 12:03 PM 42.2° 147.555
Feb 8, 2010 6:38 AM 5:28 PM 10h 49m 57s + 1m 44s 12:03 PM 42.5° 147.581
Feb 9, 2010 6:37 AM 5:29 PM 10h 51m 43s + 1m 45s 12:03 PM 42.8° 147.608
Feb 10, 2010 6:36 AM 5:30 PM 10h 53m 30s + 1m 46s 12:03 PM 43.1° 147.635
Feb 11, 2010 6:35 AM 5:31 PM 10h 55m 18s + 1m 47s 12:03 PM 43.4° 147.663
Feb 12, 2010 6:34 AM 5:32 PM 10h 57m 06s + 1m 48s 12:03 PM 43.8° 147.691
Feb 13, 2010 6:34 AM 5:32 PM 10h 58m 56s + 1m 49s 12:03 PM 44.1° 147.720
Feb 14, 2010 6:33 AM 5:33 PM 11h 00m 46s + 1m 50s 12:03 PM 44.5° 147.748
Feb 15, 2010 6:32 AM 5:34 PM 11h 02m 38s + 1m 51s 12:03 PM 44.8° 147.778
Feb 16, 2010 6:31 AM 5:35 PM 11h 04m 30s + 1m 51s 12:03 PM 45.1° 147.807
Feb 17, 2010 6:30 AM 5:36 PM 11h 06m 22s + 1m 52s 12:03 PM 45.5° 147.837
Feb 18, 2010 6:29 AM 5:37 PM 11h 08m 16s + 1m 53s 12:02 PM 45.8° 147.867
Feb 19, 2010 6:28 AM 5:38 PM 11h 10m 10s + 1m 53s 12:02 PM 46.2° 147.898
Feb 20, 2010 6:26 AM 5:39 PM 11h 12m 04s + 1m 54s 12:02 PM 46.6° 147.929
Feb 21, 2010 6:25 AM 5:39 PM 11h 13m 59s + 1m 55s 12:02 PM 46.9° 147.961
Feb 22, 2010 6:24 AM 5:40 PM 11h 15m 55s + 1m 55s 12:02 PM 47.3° 147.993
Feb 23, 2010 6:23 AM 5:41 PM 11h 17m 51s + 1m 56s 12:02 PM 47.7° 148.025
Feb 24, 2010 6:22 AM 5:42 PM 11h 19m 48s + 1m 56s 12:02 PM 48.0° 148.059
Feb 25, 2010 6:21 AM 5:43 PM 11h 21m 45s + 1m 57s 12:02 PM 48.4° 148.092
Feb 26, 2010 6:20 AM 5:44 PM 11h 23m 43s + 1m 57s 12:01 PM 48.8° 148.127
Feb 27, 2010 6:19 AM 5:44 PM 11h 25m 41s + 1m 58s 12:01 PM 49.1° 148.162
Feb 28, 2010 6:17 AM 5:45 PM 11h 27m 39s + 1m 58s 12:01 PM 49.5° 148.198

      Length of day Solar noon
Date Sunrise Sunset This day Difference Time Altitude Distance
(106 km)
Mar 1, 2010 6:16 AM 5:46 PM 11h 29m 38s + 1m 58s 12:01 PM 49.9° 148.234
Mar 2, 2010 6:15 AM 5:47 PM 11h 31m 37s + 1m 59s 12:01 PM 50.3° 148.271
Mar 3, 2010 6:14 AM 5:48 PM 11h 33m 37s + 1m 59s 12:00 Noon 50.7° 148.308
Mar 4, 2010 6:13 AM 5:48 PM 11h 35m 36s + 1m 59s 12:00 Noon 51.1° 148.346
Mar 5, 2010 6:11 AM 5:49 PM 11h 37m 37s + 2m 00s 12:00 Noon 51.4° 148.385
Mar 6, 2010 6:10 AM 5:50 PM 11h 39m 37s + 2m 00s 12:00 Noon 51.8° 148.424
Mar 7, 2010 6:09 AM 5:51 PM 11h 41m 37s + 2m 00s 12:00 Noon 52.2° 148.463
Mar 8, 2010 6:08 AM 5:51 PM 11h 43m 38s + 2m 00s 11:59 AM 52.6° 148.503
Mar 9, 2010 6:06 AM 5:52 PM 11h 45m 39s + 2m 00s 11:59 AM 53.0° 148.543
Mar 10, 2010 6:05 AM 5:53 PM 11h 47m 40s + 2m 01s 11:59 AM 53.4° 148.583
Mar 11, 2010 6:04 AM 5:54 PM 11h 49m 41s + 2m 01s 11:59 AM 53.8° 148.624
Mar 12, 2010 6:03 AM 5:54 PM 11h 51m 43s + 2m 01s 11:58 AM 54.2° 148.664
Mar 13, 2010 6:01 AM 5:55 PM 11h 53m 44s + 2m 01s 11:58 AM 54.6° 148.705
Note: hours shift because clocks change forward 1 hour (See below table for details)
Mar 14, 2010 7:00 AM 6:56 PM 11h 55m 46s + 2m 01s 12:58 PM 55.0° 148.745
Mar 15, 2010 6:59 AM 6:57 PM 11h 57m 48s + 2m 01s 12:57 PM 55.4° 148.786
Mar 16, 2010 6:57 AM 6:57 PM 11h 59m 50s + 2m 01s 12:57 PM 55.8° 148.827
Mar 17, 2010 6:56 AM 6:58 PM 12h 01m 51s + 2m 01s 12:57 PM 56.1° 148.868
Mar 18, 2010 6:55 AM 6:59 PM 12h 03m 53s + 2m 02s 12:57 PM 56.5° 148.908
Mar 19, 2010 6:54 AM 7:00 PM 12h 05m 55s + 2m 01s 12:56 PM 56.9° 148.949
Mar 20, 2010 6:52 AM 7:00 PM 12h 07m 57s + 2m 01s 12:56 PM 57.3° 148.990
Mar 21, 2010 6:51 AM 7:01 PM 12h 09m 59s + 2m 01s 12:56 PM 57.7° 149.031
Mar 22, 2010 6:50 AM 7:02 PM 12h 12m 00s + 2m 01s 12:55 PM 58.1° 149.072
Mar 23, 2010 6:48 AM 7:02 PM 12h 14m 02s + 2m 01s 12:55 PM 58.5° 149.113
Mar 24, 2010 6:47 AM 7:03 PM 12h 16m 03s + 2m 01s 12:55 PM 58.9° 149.155
Mar 25, 2010 6:46 AM 7:04 PM 12h 18m 05s + 2m 01s 12:55 PM 59.3° 149.196
Mar 26, 2010 6:44 AM 7:05 PM 12h 20m 06s + 2m 01s 12:54 PM 59.7° 149.238
Mar 27, 2010 6:43 AM 7:05 PM 12h 22m 07s + 2m 01s 12:54 PM 60.1° 149.280
Mar 28, 2010 6:42 AM 7:06 PM 12h 24m 08s + 2m 01s 12:54 PM 60.5° 149.323
Mar 29, 2010 6:40 AM 7:07 PM 12h 26m 09s + 2m 00s 12:53 PM 60.9° 149.365
Mar 30, 2010 6:39 AM 7:07 PM 12h 28m 10s + 2m 00s 12:53 PM 61.3° 149.408
Mar 31, 2010 6:38 AM 7:08 PM 12h 30m 10s + 2m 00s 12:53 PM 61.6° 149.451

      Length of day Solar noon
Date Sunrise Sunset This day Difference Time Altitude Distance
(106 km)
Apr 1, 2010 6:37 AM 7:09 PM 12h 32m 11s + 2m 00s 12:52 PM 62.0° 149.495
Apr 2, 2010 6:35 AM 7:09 PM 12h 34m 11s + 2m 00s 12:52 PM 62.4° 149.538
Apr 3, 2010 6:34 AM 7:10 PM 12h 36m 10s + 1m 59s 12:52 PM 62.8° 149.582
Apr 4, 2010 6:33 AM 7:11 PM 12h 38m 10s + 1m 59s 12:52 PM 63.2° 149.626
Apr 5, 2010 6:31 AM 7:12 PM 12h 40m 09s + 1m 59s 12:51 PM 63.6° 149.670
Apr 6, 2010 6:30 AM 7:12 PM 12h 42m 08s + 1m 58s 12:51 PM 63.9° 149.714
Apr 7, 2010 6:29 AM 7:13 PM 12h 44m 07s + 1m 58s 12:51 PM 64.3° 149.757
Apr 8, 2010 6:28 AM 7:14 PM 12h 46m 05s + 1m 58s 12:50 PM 64.7° 149.801
Apr 9, 2010 6:26 AM 7:14 PM 12h 48m 03s + 1m 57s 12:50 PM 65.1° 149.845
Apr 10, 2010 6:25 AM 7:15 PM 12h 50m 00s + 1m 57s 12:50 PM 65.4° 149.888
Apr 11, 2010 6:24 AM 7:16 PM 12h 51m 57s + 1m 57s 12:50 PM 65.8° 149.931
Apr 12, 2010 6:23 AM 7:17 PM 12h 53m 54s + 1m 56s 12:49 PM 66.2° 149.974
Apr 13, 2010 6:21 AM 7:17 PM 12h 55m 50s + 1m 56s 12:49 PM 66.5° 150.016
Apr 14, 2010 6:20 AM 7:18 PM 12h 57m 46s + 1m 55s 12:49 PM 66.9° 150.058
Apr 15, 2010 6:19 AM 7:19 PM 12h 59m 41s + 1m 55s 12:49 PM 67.2° 150.100
Apr 16, 2010 6:18 AM 7:19 PM 13h 01m 36s + 1m 54s 12:48 PM 67.6° 150.141
Apr 17, 2010 6:17 AM 7:20 PM 13h 03m 30s + 1m 54s 12:48 PM 67.9° 150.182
Apr 18, 2010 6:15 AM 7:21 PM 13h 05m 23s + 1m 53s 12:48 PM 68.3° 150.223
Apr 19, 2010 6:14 AM 7:22 PM 13h 07m 16s + 1m 52s 12:48 PM 68.6° 150.264
Apr 20, 2010 6:13 AM 7:22 PM 13h 09m 08s + 1m 52s 12:47 PM 69.0° 150.304
Apr 21, 2010 6:12 AM 7:23 PM 13h 10m 59s + 1m 51s 12:47 PM 69.3° 150.344
Apr 22, 2010 6:11 AM 7:24 PM 13h 12m 50s + 1m 50s 12:47 PM 69.7° 150.383
Apr 23, 2010 6:10 AM 7:24 PM 13h 14m 40s + 1m 49s 12:47 PM 70.0° 150.423
Apr 24, 2010 6:09 AM 7:25 PM 13h 16m 29s + 1m 49s 12:47 PM 70.3° 150.462
Apr 25, 2010 6:08 AM 7:26 PM 13h 18m 18s + 1m 48s 12:47 PM 70.6° 150.501
Apr 26, 2010 6:07 AM 7:27 PM 13h 20m 05s + 1m 47s 12:46 PM 71.0° 150.541
Apr 27, 2010 6:06 AM 7:27 PM 13h 21m 52s + 1m 46s 12:46 PM 71.3° 150.580
Apr 28, 2010 6:04 AM 7:28 PM 13h 23m 38s + 1m 45s 12:46 PM 71.6° 150.618
Apr 29, 2010 6:03 AM 7:29 PM 13h 25m 23s + 1m 44s 12:46 PM 71.9° 150.657
Apr 30, 2010 6:02 AM 7:30 PM 13h 27m 07s + 1m 43s 12:46 PM 72.2° 150.696

      Length of day Solar noon
Date Sunrise Sunset This day Difference Time Altitude Distance
(106 km)
May 1, 2010 6:01 AM 7:30 PM 13h 28m 49s + 1m 42s 12:46 PM 72.5° 150.735
May 2, 2010 6:01 AM 7:31 PM 13h 30m 31s + 1m 41s 12:46 PM 72.8° 150.773
May 3, 2010 6:00 AM 7:32 PM 13h 32m 12s + 1m 40s 12:45 PM 73.1° 150.811
May 4, 2010 5:59 AM 7:33 PM 13h 33m 52s + 1m 39s 12:45 PM 73.4° 150.849
May 5, 2010 5:58 AM 7:33 PM 13h 35m 30s + 1m 38s 12:45 PM 73.7° 150.887
May 6, 2010 5:57 AM 7:34 PM 13h 37m 07s + 1m 37s 12:45 PM 74.0° 150.924
May 7, 2010 5:56 AM 7:35 PM 13h 38m 44s + 1m 36s 12:45 PM 74.2° 150.961
May 8, 2010 5:55 AM 7:35 PM 13h 40m 18s + 1m 34s 12:45 PM 74.5° 150.997
May 9, 2010 5:54 AM 7:36 PM 13h 41m 52s + 1m 33s 12:45 PM 74.8° 151.033
May 10, 2010 5:53 AM 7:37 PM 13h 43m 24s + 1m 32s 12:45 PM 75.0° 151.068
May 11, 2010 5:53 AM 7:38 PM 13h 44m 55s + 1m 30s 12:45 PM 75.3° 151.103
May 12, 2010 5:52 AM 7:38 PM 13h 46m 24s + 1m 29s 12:45 PM 75.5° 151.136
May 13, 2010 5:51 AM 7:39 PM 13h 47m 52s + 1m 27s 12:45 PM 75.8° 151.170
May 14, 2010 5:50 AM 7:40 PM 13h 49m 19s + 1m 26s 12:45 PM 76.0° 151.202
May 15, 2010 5:50 AM 7:41 PM 13h 50m 44s + 1m 24s 12:45 PM 76.3° 151.234
May 16, 2010 5:49 AM 7:41 PM 13h 52m 07s + 1m 23s 12:45 PM 76.5° 151.266
May 17, 2010 5:48 AM 7:42 PM 13h 53m 28s + 1m 21s 12:45 PM 76.7° 151.296
May 18, 2010 5:48 AM 7:43 PM 13h 54m 48s + 1m 19s 12:45 PM 76.9° 151.326
May 19, 2010 5:47 AM 7:43 PM 13h 56m 06s + 1m 18s 12:45 PM 77.2° 151.356
May 20, 2010 5:47 AM 7:44 PM 13h 57m 22s + 1m 16s 12:45 PM 77.4° 151.385
May 21, 2010 5:46 AM 7:45 PM 13h 58m 37s + 1m 14s 12:45 PM 77.6° 151.413
May 22, 2010 5:46 AM 7:45 PM 13h 59m 49s + 1m 12s 12:45 PM 77.8° 151.441
May 23, 2010 5:45 AM 7:46 PM 14h 01m 00s + 1m 10s 12:45 PM 78.0° 151.468
May 24, 2010 5:45 AM 7:47 PM 14h 02m 08s + 1m 08s 12:45 PM 78.1° 151.495
May 25, 2010 5:44 AM 7:47 PM 14h 03m 15s + 1m 06s 12:46 PM 78.3° 151.522
May 26, 2010 5:44 AM 7:48 PM 14h 04m 20s + 1m 04s 12:46 PM 78.5° 151.548
May 27, 2010 5:43 AM 7:49 PM 14h 05m 22s + 1m 02s 12:46 PM 78.7° 151.574
May 28, 2010 5:43 AM 7:49 PM 14h 06m 23s + 1m 00s 12:46 PM 78.8° 151.599
May 29, 2010 5:42 AM 7:50 PM 14h 07m 21s + 58s 12:46 PM 79.0° 151.624
May 30, 2010 5:42 AM 7:50 PM 14h 08m 17s + 56s 12:46 PM 79.1° 151.649
May 31, 2010 5:42 AM 7:51 PM 14h 09m 11s + 53s 12:46 PM 79.3° 151.673

      Length of day Solar noon
Date Sunrise Sunset This day Difference Time Altitude Distance
(106 km)
Jun 1, 2010 5:42 AM 7:52 PM 14h 10m 02s + 51s 12:46 PM 79.4° 151.697
Jun 2, 2010 5:41 AM 7:52 PM 14h 10m 51s + 49s 12:47 PM 79.5° 151.720
Jun 3, 2010 5:41 AM 7:53 PM 14h 11m 38s + 46s 12:47 PM 79.7° 151.743
Jun 4, 2010 5:41 AM 7:53 PM 14h 12m 23s + 44s 12:47 PM 79.8° 151.765
Jun 5, 2010 5:41 AM 7:54 PM 14h 13m 05s + 42s 12:47 PM 79.9° 151.786
Jun 6, 2010 5:41 AM 7:54 PM 14h 13m 44s + 39s 12:47 PM 80.0° 151.807
Jun 7, 2010 5:40 AM 7:55 PM 14h 14m 21s + 37s 12:47 PM 80.1° 151.827
Jun 8, 2010 5:40 AM 7:55 PM 14h 14m 56s + 34s 12:48 PM 80.2° 151.847
Jun 9, 2010 5:40 AM 7:56 PM 14h 15m 28s + 32s 12:48 PM 80.3° 151.865
Jun 10, 2010 5:40 AM 7:56 PM 14h 15m 58s + 29s 12:48 PM 80.3° 151.883
Jun 11, 2010 5:40 AM 7:57 PM 14h 16m 25s + 26s 12:48 PM 80.4° 151.900
Jun 12, 2010 5:40 AM 7:57 PM 14h 16m 49s + 24s 12:49 PM 80.5° 151.916
Jun 13, 2010 5:40 AM 7:57 PM 14h 17m 11s + 21s 12:49 PM 80.5° 151.931
Jun 14, 2010 5:40 AM 7:58 PM 14h 17m 30s + 19s 12:49 PM 80.6° 151.945
Jun 15, 2010 5:40 AM 7:58 PM 14h 17m 46s + 16s 12:49 PM 80.6° 151.958
Jun 16, 2010 5:40 AM 7:58 PM 14h 18m 00s + 13s 12:49 PM 80.6° 151.971
Jun 17, 2010 5:40 AM 7:59 PM 14h 18m 11s + 11s 12:50 PM 80.7° 151.983
Jun 18, 2010 5:41 AM 7:59 PM 14h 18m 20s + 08s 12:50 PM 80.7° 151.994
Jun 19, 2010 5:41 AM 7:59 PM 14h 18m 25s + 05s 12:50 PM 80.7° 152.004
Jun 20, 2010 5:41 AM 7:59 PM 14h 18m 28s + 03s 12:50 PM 80.7° 152.013
Jun 21, 2010 5:41 AM 8:00 PM 14h 18m 29s < 1s 12:50 PM 80.7° 152.022
Jun 22, 2010 5:41 AM 8:00 PM 14h 18m 26s − 02s 12:51 PM 80.7° 152.031
Jun 23, 2010 5:42 AM 8:00 PM 14h 18m 21s − 04s 12:51 PM 80.7° 152.039
Jun 24, 2010 5:42 AM 8:00 PM 14h 18m 14s − 07s 12:51 PM 80.7° 152.046
Jun 25, 2010 5:42 AM 8:00 PM 14h 18m 03s − 10s 12:51 PM 80.7° 152.053
Jun 26, 2010 5:43 AM 8:00 PM 14h 17m 50s − 12s 12:52 PM 80.6° 152.059
Jun 27, 2010 5:43 AM 8:00 PM 14h 17m 35s − 15s 12:52 PM 80.6° 152.065
Jun 28, 2010 5:43 AM 8:01 PM 14h 17m 17s − 18s 12:52 PM 80.5° 152.070
Jun 29, 2010 5:44 AM 8:01 PM 14h 16m 56s − 20s 12:52 PM 80.5° 152.074
Jun 30, 2010 5:44 AM 8:01 PM 14h 16m 32s − 23s 12:52 PM 80.4° 152.079

      Length of day Solar noon
Date Sunrise Sunset This day Difference Time Altitude Distance
(106 km)
Jul 1, 2010 5:44 AM 8:00 PM 14h 16m 07s − 25s 12:53 PM 80.4° 152.082
Jul 2, 2010 5:45 AM 8:00 PM 14h 15m 38s − 28s 12:53 PM 80.3° 152.085
Jul 3, 2010 5:45 AM 8:00 PM 14h 15m 06s − 31s 12:53 PM 80.2° 152.088
Jul 4, 2010 5:46 AM 8:00 PM 14h 14m 33s − 33s 12:53 PM 80.1° 152.089
Jul 5, 2010 5:46 AM 8:00 PM 14h 13m 57s − 36s 12:53 PM 80.0° 152.090
Jul 6, 2010 5:47 AM 8:00 PM 14h 13m 18s − 38s 12:53 PM 79.9° 152.090
Jul 7, 2010 5:47 AM 8:00 PM 14h 12m 37s − 41s 12:54 PM 79.8° 152.089
Jul 8, 2010 5:48 AM 8:00 PM 14h 11m 53s − 43s 12:54 PM 79.7° 152.088
Jul 9, 2010 5:48 AM 7:59 PM 14h 11m 08s − 45s 12:54 PM 79.6° 152.085
Jul 10, 2010 5:49 AM 7:59 PM 14h 10m 19s − 48s 12:54 PM 79.5° 152.082
Jul 11, 2010 5:49 AM 7:59 PM 14h 09m 29s − 50s 12:54 PM 79.3° 152.078
Jul 12, 2010 5:50 AM 7:58 PM 14h 08m 36s − 52s 12:54 PM 79.2° 152.072
Jul 13, 2010 5:50 AM 7:58 PM 14h 07m 41s − 54s 12:54 PM 79.0° 152.066
Jul 14, 2010 5:51 AM 7:58 PM 14h 06m 44s − 57s 12:55 PM 78.9° 152.059
Jul 15, 2010 5:52 AM 7:57 PM 14h 05m 45s − 59s 12:55 PM 78.7° 152.051
Jul 16, 2010 5:52 AM 7:57 PM 14h 04m 43s − 1m 01s 12:55 PM 78.6° 152.043
Jul 17, 2010 5:53 AM 7:56 PM 14h 03m 40s − 1m 03s 12:55 PM 78.4° 152.033
Jul 18, 2010 5:53 AM 7:56 PM 14h 02m 34s − 1m 05s 12:55 PM 78.2° 152.023
Jul 19, 2010 5:54 AM 7:55 PM 14h 01m 27s − 1m 07s 12:55 PM 78.0° 152.012
Jul 20, 2010 5:55 AM 7:55 PM 14h 00m 18s − 1m 09s 12:55 PM 77.8° 152.000
Jul 21, 2010 5:55 AM 7:54 PM 13h 59m 06s − 1m 11s 12:55 PM 77.7° 151.988
Jul 22, 2010 5:56 AM 7:54 PM 13h 57m 53s − 1m 13s 12:55 PM 77.5° 151.975
Jul 23, 2010 5:57 AM 7:53 PM 13h 56m 38s − 1m 14s 12:55 PM 77.3° 151.962
Jul 24, 2010 5:57 AM 7:53 PM 13h 55m 22s − 1m 16s 12:55 PM 77.0° 151.948
Jul 25, 2010 5:58 AM 7:52 PM 13h 54m 03s − 1m 18s 12:55 PM 76.8° 151.934
Jul 26, 2010 5:59 AM 7:51 PM 13h 52m 43s − 1m 20s 12:55 PM 76.6° 151.919
Jul 27, 2010 5:59 AM 7:51 PM 13h 51m 22s − 1m 21s 12:55 PM 76.4° 151.904
Jul 28, 2010 6:00 AM 7:50 PM 13h 49m 58s − 1m 23s 12:55 PM 76.1° 151.888
Jul 29, 2010 6:01 AM 7:49 PM 13h 48m 34s − 1m 24s 12:55 PM 75.9° 151.872
Jul 30, 2010 6:01 AM 7:48 PM 13h 47m 07s − 1m 26s 12:55 PM 75.7° 151.855
Jul 31, 2010 6:02 AM 7:48 PM 13h 45m 40s − 1m 27s 12:55 PM 75.4° 151.838

      Length of day Solar noon
Date Sunrise Sunset This day Difference Time Altitude Distance
(106 km)
Aug 1, 2010 6:03 AM 7:47 PM 13h 44m 10s − 1m 29s 12:55 PM 75.2° 151.820
Aug 2, 2010 6:03 AM 7:46 PM 13h 42m 40s − 1m 30s 12:55 PM 74.9° 151.802
Aug 3, 2010 6:04 AM 7:45 PM 13h 41m 08s − 1m 31s 12:55 PM 74.7° 151.783
Aug 4, 2010 6:05 AM 7:44 PM 13h 39m 35s − 1m 33s 12:55 PM 74.4° 151.763
Aug 5, 2010 6:05 AM 7:43 PM 13h 38m 00s − 1m 34s 12:55 PM 74.1° 151.742
Aug 6, 2010 6:06 AM 7:42 PM 13h 36m 24s − 1m 35s 12:54 PM 73.8° 151.721
Aug 7, 2010 6:07 AM 7:42 PM 13h 34m 48s − 1m 36s 12:54 PM 73.6° 151.699
Aug 8, 2010 6:07 AM 7:41 PM 13h 33m 10s − 1m 38s 12:54 PM 73.3° 151.677
Aug 9, 2010 6:08 AM 7:40 PM 13h 31m 30s − 1m 39s 12:54 PM 73.0° 151.653
Aug 10, 2010 6:09 AM 7:39 PM 13h 29m 51s − 1m 39s 12:54 PM 72.7° 151.629
Aug 11, 2010 6:09 AM 7:38 PM 13h 28m 09s − 1m 41s 12:54 PM 72.4° 151.604
Aug 12, 2010 6:10 AM 7:37 PM 13h 26m 27s − 1m 42s 12:54 PM 72.1° 151.578
Aug 13, 2010 6:11 AM 7:36 PM 13h 24m 44s − 1m 43s 12:53 PM 71.8° 151.551
Aug 14, 2010 6:11 AM 7:35 PM 13h 23m 00s − 1m 44s 12:53 PM 71.5° 151.524
Aug 15, 2010 6:12 AM 7:33 PM 13h 21m 15s − 1m 44s 12:53 PM 71.2° 151.496
Aug 16, 2010 6:13 AM 7:32 PM 13h 19m 29s − 1m 45s 12:53 PM 70.9° 151.467
Aug 17, 2010 6:14 AM 7:31 PM 13h 17m 43s − 1m 46s 12:53 PM 70.5° 151.438
Aug 18, 2010 6:14 AM 7:30 PM 13h 15m 56s − 1m 47s 12:52 PM 70.2° 151.408
Aug 19, 2010 6:15 AM 7:29 PM 13h 14m 08s − 1m 48s 12:52 PM 69.9° 151.378
Aug 20, 2010 6:16 AM 7:28 PM 13h 12m 19s − 1m 48s 12:52 PM 69.6° 151.347
Aug 21, 2010 6:16 AM 7:27 PM 13h 10m 29s − 1m 49s 12:52 PM 69.2° 151.316
Aug 22, 2010 6:17 AM 7:26 PM 13h 08m 39s − 1m 50s 12:51 PM 68.9° 151.284
Aug 23, 2010 6:18 AM 7:24 PM 13h 06m 48s − 1m 50s 12:51 PM 68.6° 151.253
Aug 24, 2010 6:18 AM 7:23 PM 13h 04m 57s − 1m 51s 12:51 PM 68.2° 151.221
Aug 25, 2010 6:19 AM 7:22 PM 13h 03m 05s − 1m 51s 12:51 PM 67.9° 151.189
Aug 26, 2010 6:19 AM 7:21 PM 13h 01m 12s − 1m 52s 12:50 PM 67.5° 151.156
Aug 27, 2010 6:20 AM 7:19 PM 12h 59m 19s − 1m 53s 12:50 PM 67.2° 151.123
Aug 28, 2010 6:21 AM 7:18 PM 12h 57m 26s − 1m 53s 12:50 PM 66.8° 151.090
Aug 29, 2010 6:21 AM 7:17 PM 12h 55m 32s − 1m 54s 12:49 PM 66.5° 151.057
Aug 30, 2010 6:22 AM 7:16 PM 12h 53m 37s − 1m 54s 12:49 PM 66.1° 151.023
Aug 31, 2010 6:23 AM 7:14 PM 12h 51m 42s − 1m 54s 12:49 PM 65.7° 150.989

      Length of day Solar noon
Date Sunrise Sunset This day Difference Time Altitude Distance
(106 km)
Sep 1, 2010 6:23 AM 7:13 PM 12h 49m 47s − 1m 55s 12:49 PM 65.4° 150.955
Sep 2, 2010 6:24 AM 7:12 PM 12h 47m 51s − 1m 55s 12:48 PM 65.0° 150.920
Sep 3, 2010 6:25 AM 7:11 PM 12h 45m 55s − 1m 56s 12:48 PM 64.7° 150.884
Sep 4, 2010 6:25 AM 7:09 PM 12h 43m 58s − 1m 56s 12:48 PM 64.3° 150.849
Sep 5, 2010 6:26 AM 7:08 PM 12h 42m 01s − 1m 56s 12:47 PM 63.9° 150.812
Sep 6, 2010 6:27 AM 7:07 PM 12h 40m 04s − 1m 57s 12:47 PM 63.5° 150.775
Sep 7, 2010 6:27 AM 7:05 PM 12h 38m 07s − 1m 57s 12:47 PM 63.2° 150.738
Sep 8, 2010 6:28 AM 7:04 PM 12h 36m 09s − 1m 57s 12:46 PM 62.8° 150.700
Sep 9, 2010 6:28 AM 7:03 PM 12h 34m 11s − 1m 58s 12:46 PM 62.4° 150.662
Sep 10, 2010 6:29 AM 7:01 PM 12h 32m 12s − 1m 58s 12:46 PM 62.0° 150.623
Sep 11, 2010 6:30 AM 7:00 PM 12h 30m 14s − 1m 58s 12:45 PM 61.7° 150.583
Sep 12, 2010 6:30 AM 6:59 PM 12h 28m 15s − 1m 58s 12:45 PM 61.3° 150.543
Sep 13, 2010 6:31 AM 6:57 PM 12h 26m 16s − 1m 58s 12:44 PM 60.9° 150.503
Sep 14, 2010 6:32 AM 6:56 PM 12h 24m 17s − 1m 58s 12:44 PM 60.5° 150.462
Sep 15, 2010 6:32 AM 6:55 PM 12h 22m 18s − 1m 59s 12:44 PM 60.1° 150.421
Sep 16, 2010 6:33 AM 6:53 PM 12h 20m 18s − 1m 59s 12:43 PM 59.7° 150.379
Sep 17, 2010 6:34 AM 6:52 PM 12h 18m 19s − 1m 59s 12:43 PM 59.4° 150.338
Sep 18, 2010 6:34 AM 6:51 PM 12h 16m 19s − 1m 59s 12:43 PM 59.0° 150.296
Sep 19, 2010 6:35 AM 6:49 PM 12h 14m 20s − 1m 59s 12:42 PM 58.6° 150.254
Sep 20, 2010 6:36 AM 6:48 PM 12h 12m 20s − 1m 59s 12:42 PM 58.2° 150.213
Sep 21, 2010 6:36 AM 6:47 PM 12h 10m 20s − 1m 59s 12:42 PM 57.8° 150.171
Sep 22, 2010 6:37 AM 6:45 PM 12h 08m 20s − 1m 59s 12:41 PM 57.4° 150.129
Sep 23, 2010 6:37 AM 6:44 PM 12h 06m 20s − 1m 59s 12:41 PM 57.0° 150.087
Sep 24, 2010 6:38 AM 6:42 PM 12h 04m 20s − 1m 59s 12:41 PM 56.6° 150.045
Sep 25, 2010 6:39 AM 6:41 PM 12h 02m 21s − 1m 59s 12:40 PM 56.2° 150.004
Sep 26, 2010 6:39 AM 6:40 PM 12h 00m 21s − 1m 59s 12:40 PM 55.9° 149.962
Sep 27, 2010 6:40 AM 6:38 PM 11h 58m 21s − 1m 59s 12:40 PM 55.5° 149.920
Sep 28, 2010 6:41 AM 6:37 PM 11h 56m 21s − 1m 59s 12:39 PM 55.1° 149.879
Sep 29, 2010 6:41 AM 6:36 PM 11h 54m 21s − 1m 59s 12:39 PM 54.7° 149.837
Sep 30, 2010 6:42 AM 6:34 PM 11h 52m 22s − 1m 59s 12:39 PM 54.3° 149.795

      Length of day Solar noon
Date Sunrise Sunset This day Difference Time Altitude Distance
(106 km)
Oct 1, 2010 6:43 AM 6:33 PM 11h 50m 22s − 1m 59s 12:38 PM 53.9° 149.754
Oct 2, 2010 6:43 AM 6:32 PM 11h 48m 22s − 1m 59s 12:38 PM 53.5° 149.712
Oct 3, 2010 6:44 AM 6:31 PM 11h 46m 23s − 1m 59s 12:38 PM 53.1° 149.670
Oct 4, 2010 6:45 AM 6:29 PM 11h 44m 24s − 1m 59s 12:37 PM 52.8° 149.628
Oct 5, 2010 6:45 AM 6:28 PM 11h 42m 25s − 1m 59s 12:37 PM 52.4° 149.585
Oct 6, 2010 6:46 AM 6:27 PM 11h 40m 26s − 1m 58s 12:37 PM 52.0° 149.543
Oct 7, 2010 6:47 AM 6:25 PM 11h 38m 27s − 1m 58s 12:36 PM 51.6° 149.500
Oct 8, 2010 6:48 AM 6:24 PM 11h 36m 29s − 1m 58s 12:36 PM 51.2° 149.457
Oct 9, 2010 6:48 AM 6:23 PM 11h 34m 31s − 1m 58s 12:36 PM 50.8° 149.414
Oct 10, 2010 6:49 AM 6:22 PM 11h 32m 33s − 1m 57s 12:36 PM 50.5° 149.371
Oct 11, 2010 6:50 AM 6:20 PM 11h 30m 35s − 1m 57s 12:35 PM 50.1° 149.328
Oct 12, 2010 6:50 AM 6:19 PM 11h 28m 38s − 1m 57s 12:35 PM 49.7° 149.284
Oct 13, 2010 6:51 AM 6:18 PM 11h 26m 41s − 1m 56s 12:35 PM 49.3° 149.241
Oct 14, 2010 6:52 AM 6:17 PM 11h 24m 44s − 1m 56s 12:35 PM 49.0° 149.197
Oct 15, 2010 6:53 AM 6:16 PM 11h 22m 48s − 1m 56s 12:34 PM 48.6° 149.154
Oct 16, 2010 6:53 AM 6:14 PM 11h 20m 52s − 1m 55s 12:34 PM 48.2° 149.111
Oct 17, 2010 6:54 AM 6:13 PM 11h 18m 57s − 1m 55s 12:34 PM 47.9° 149.068
Oct 18, 2010 6:55 AM 6:12 PM 11h 17m 02s − 1m 54s 12:34 PM 47.5° 149.025
Oct 19, 2010 6:56 AM 6:11 PM 11h 15m 07s − 1m 54s 12:34 PM 47.1° 148.982
Oct 20, 2010 6:57 AM 6:10 PM 11h 13m 13s − 1m 54s 12:33 PM 46.8° 148.940
Oct 21, 2010 6:57 AM 6:09 PM 11h 11m 20s − 1m 53s 12:33 PM 46.4° 148.898
Oct 22, 2010 6:58 AM 6:08 PM 11h 09m 27s − 1m 52s 12:33 PM 46.1° 148.857
Oct 23, 2010 6:59 AM 6:06 PM 11h 07m 35s − 1m 52s 12:33 PM 45.7° 148.816
Oct 24, 2010 7:00 AM 6:05 PM 11h 05m 43s − 1m 51s 12:33 PM 45.4° 148.775
Oct 25, 2010 7:01 AM 6:04 PM 11h 03m 52s − 1m 50s 12:33 PM 45.0° 148.735
Oct 26, 2010 7:01 AM 6:03 PM 11h 02m 02s − 1m 50s 12:33 PM 44.7° 148.695
Oct 27, 2010 7:02 AM 6:02 PM 11h 00m 13s − 1m 49s 12:32 PM 44.4° 148.656
Oct 28, 2010 7:03 AM 6:01 PM 10h 58m 24s − 1m 48s 12:32 PM 44.0° 148.617
Oct 29, 2010 7:04 AM 6:00 PM 10h 56m 36s − 1m 47s 12:32 PM 43.7° 148.578
Oct 30, 2010 7:05 AM 5:59 PM 10h 54m 49s − 1m 47s 12:32 PM 43.4° 148.540
Oct 31, 2010 7:05 AM 5:59 PM 10h 53m 02s − 1m 46s 12:32 PM 43.0° 148.502

      Length of day Solar noon
Date Sunrise Sunset This day Difference Time Altitude Distance
(106 km)
Nov 1, 2010 7:06 AM 5:58 PM 10h 51m 17s − 1m 45s 12:32 PM 42.7° 148.464
Nov 2, 2010 7:07 AM 5:57 PM 10h 49m 33s − 1m 44s 12:32 PM 42.4° 148.427
Nov 3, 2010 7:08 AM 5:56 PM 10h 47m 49s − 1m 43s 12:32 PM 42.1° 148.389
Nov 4, 2010 7:09 AM 5:55 PM 10h 46m 07s − 1m 42s 12:32 PM 41.8° 148.352
Nov 5, 2010 7:10 AM 5:54 PM 10h 44m 25s − 1m 41s 12:32 PM 41.5° 148.315
Nov 6, 2010 7:11 AM 5:53 PM 10h 42m 45s − 1m 40s 12:32 PM 41.2° 148.278
Note: hours shift because clocks change backward 1 hour (See below table for details)
Nov 7, 2010 6:12 AM 4:53 PM 10h 41m 06s − 1m 39s 11:32 AM 40.9° 148.242
Nov 8, 2010 6:12 AM 4:52 PM 10h 39m 28s − 1m 37s 11:32 AM 40.6° 148.205
Nov 9, 2010 6:13 AM 4:51 PM 10h 37m 51s − 1m 36s 11:32 AM 40.3° 148.169
Nov 10, 2010 6:14 AM 4:51 PM 10h 36m 16s − 1m 35s 11:33 AM 40.0° 148.133
Nov 11, 2010 6:15 AM 4:50 PM 10h 34m 42s − 1m 34s 11:33 AM 39.7° 148.097
Nov 12, 2010 6:16 AM 4:49 PM 10h 33m 09s − 1m 32s 11:33 AM 39.5° 148.062
Nov 13, 2010 6:17 AM 4:49 PM 10h 31m 38s − 1m 31s 11:33 AM 39.2° 148.027
Nov 14, 2010 6:18 AM 4:48 PM 10h 30m 09s − 1m 29s 11:33 AM 39.0° 147.993
Nov 15, 2010 6:19 AM 4:47 PM 10h 28m 40s − 1m 28s 11:33 AM 38.7° 147.959
Nov 16, 2010 6:20 AM 4:47 PM 10h 27m 14s − 1m 26s 11:33 AM 38.4° 147.925
Nov 17, 2010 6:21 AM 4:46 PM 10h 25m 49s − 1m 24s 11:34 AM 38.2° 147.892
Nov 18, 2010 6:21 AM 4:46 PM 10h 24m 26s − 1m 22s 11:34 AM 38.0° 147.860
Nov 19, 2010 6:22 AM 4:45 PM 10h 23m 05s − 1m 21s 11:34 AM 37.7° 147.829
Nov 20, 2010 6:23 AM 4:45 PM 10h 21m 45s − 1m 19s 11:34 AM 37.5° 147.798
Nov 21, 2010 6:24 AM 4:45 PM 10h 20m 27s − 1m 17s 11:35 AM 37.3° 147.768
Nov 22, 2010 6:25 AM 4:44 PM 10h 19m 12s − 1m 15s 11:35 AM 37.1° 147.739
Nov 23, 2010 6:26 AM 4:44 PM 10h 17m 58s − 1m 13s 11:35 AM 36.9° 147.710
Nov 24, 2010 6:27 AM 4:44 PM 10h 16m 46s − 1m 11s 11:35 AM 36.7° 147.682
Nov 25, 2010 6:28 AM 4:43 PM 10h 15m 36s − 1m 09s 11:36 AM 36.5° 147.655
Nov 26, 2010 6:29 AM 4:43 PM 10h 14m 28s − 1m 07s 11:36 AM 36.3° 147.629
Nov 27, 2010 6:29 AM 4:43 PM 10h 13m 22s − 1m 05s 11:36 AM 36.1° 147.603
Nov 28, 2010 6:30 AM 4:43 PM 10h 12m 19s − 1m 03s 11:37 AM 35.9° 147.578
Nov 29, 2010 6:31 AM 4:43 PM 10h 11m 18s − 1m 01s 11:37 AM 35.7° 147.554
Nov 30, 2010 6:32 AM 4:42 PM 10h 10m 19s − 58s 11:37 AM 35.6° 147.530

      Length of day Solar noon
Date Sunrise Sunset This day Difference Time Altitude Distance
(106 km)
Dec 1, 2010 6:33 AM 4:42 PM 10h 09m 22s − 56s 11:38 AM 35.4° 147.507
Dec 2, 2010 6:34 AM 4:42 PM 10h 08m 28s − 54s 11:38 AM 35.3° 147.484
Dec 3, 2010 6:35 AM 4:42 PM 10h 07m 37s − 51s 11:38 AM 35.1° 147.462
Dec 4, 2010 6:35 AM 4:42 PM 10h 06m 48s − 49s 11:39 AM 35.0° 147.440
Dec 5, 2010 6:36 AM 4:42 PM 10h 06m 01s − 46s 11:39 AM 34.9° 147.419
Dec 6, 2010 6:37 AM 4:42 PM 10h 05m 17s − 44s 11:40 AM 34.8° 147.398
Dec 7, 2010 6:38 AM 4:42 PM 10h 04m 35s − 41s 11:40 AM 34.6° 147.377
Dec 8, 2010 6:39 AM 4:43 PM 10h 03m 56s − 38s 11:41 AM 34.5° 147.357
Dec 9, 2010 6:39 AM 4:43 PM 10h 03m 20s − 36s 11:41 AM 34.4° 147.338
Dec 10, 2010 6:40 AM 4:43 PM 10h 02m 47s − 33s 11:41 AM 34.4° 147.319
Dec 11, 2010 6:41 AM 4:43 PM 10h 02m 16s − 30s 11:42 AM 34.3° 147.301
Dec 12, 2010 6:41 AM 4:43 PM 10h 01m 48s − 27s 11:42 AM 34.2° 147.283
Dec 13, 2010 6:42 AM 4:44 PM 10h 01m 23s − 25s 11:43 AM 34.1° 147.266
Dec 14, 2010 6:43 AM 4:44 PM 10h 01m 01s − 22s 11:43 AM 34.1° 147.249
Dec 15, 2010 6:43 AM 4:44 PM 10h 00m 42s − 19s 11:44 AM 34.0° 147.234
Dec 16, 2010 6:44 AM 4:45 PM 10h 00m 25s − 16s 11:44 AM 34.0° 147.219
Dec 17, 2010 6:45 AM 4:45 PM 10h 00m 12s − 13s 11:45 AM 33.9° 147.205
Dec 18, 2010 6:45 AM 4:45 PM 10h 00m 01s − 10s 11:45 AM 33.9° 147.192
Dec 19, 2010 6:46 AM 4:46 PM 9h 59m 53s − 07s 11:46 AM 33.9° 147.180
Dec 20, 2010 6:46 AM 4:46 PM 9h 59m 48s − 04s 11:46 AM 33.9° 147.169
Dec 21, 2010 6:47 AM 4:47 PM 9h 59m 46s − 01s 11:47 AM 33.9° 147.159
Dec 22, 2010 6:47 AM 4:47 PM 9h 59m 47s < 1s 11:47 AM 33.9° 147.149
Dec 23, 2010 6:48 AM 4:48 PM 9h 59m 51s + 03s 11:48 AM 33.9° 147.141
Dec 24, 2010 6:48 AM 4:48 PM 9h 59m 58s + 06s 11:48 AM 33.9° 147.133
Dec 25, 2010 6:49 AM 4:49 PM 10h 00m 08s + 09s 11:49 AM 33.9° 147.127
Dec 26, 2010 6:49 AM 4:49 PM 10h 00m 21s + 12s 11:49 AM 34.0° 147.121
Dec 27, 2010 6:49 AM 4:50 PM 10h 00m 36s + 15s 11:50 AM 34.0° 147.116
Dec 28, 2010 6:50 AM 4:51 PM 10h 00m 55s + 18s 11:50 AM 34.1° 147.112
Dec 29, 2010 6:50 AM 4:51 PM 10h 01m 16s + 21s 11:51 AM 34.1° 147.109
Dec 30, 2010 6:50 AM 4:52 PM 10h 01m 40s + 24s 11:51 AM 34.2° 147.106
Dec 31, 2010 6:51 AM 4:53 PM 10h 02m 08s + 27s 11:52 AM 34.2° 147.104

And

Scattante R-650 Full TT set up

|

And
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